Tourism makes a firm impression on Antigua's west coast , with hotels dotted at regular intervals between the little fishing village of Old Road in the south and the capital, St John's. Two features dominate the area: a series of lovely beaches, with Darkwood probably the pick of the bunch for swimming, snorkeling and beachcombing, and a glowering range of hills known as the Shekerley Mountains in the southwest, offering the chance for a climb and some panoramic views. The lush and thickly wooded Fig Tree Hill on the edge of the range is as scenic a spot as you'll find, and you can take a variety of hikes inland to see a side of Antigua overlooked by the vast majority of tourists. Due west of St John's, the Five Islands peninsula holds several hotels, some good beaches and the substantial ruins of the eighteenth-century Fort Barrington.

Eating and drinking
As well as a series of eateries lined up along the marina at Jolly Harbour , this side of the island offers a handful of places dotted along the coast.

Dogwatch Tavern Jolly Harbour - ph 268/462-6550. English-style pub, right beside the marina, with pool tables and dartboards, and an inexpensive outdoor snack bar and grill that sells burgers (EC$20), hot dogs (EC$10), red snapper with peas and rice (EC$28) and steak with fries (EC$45). Bar open Mon-Fri 11am-10pm, Sat & Sun 5-10pm, restaurant daily from 6pm.

Steely Bar Jolly Harbour ph  268/462-6260. This lively place, overlooking the marina in the heart of the Jolly Harbour complex serves food all day. A full breakfast will set you back EC$23, while an extensive lunch menu features salads (EC$19-27), hot dogs and burgers, and dinner might include pan-fried duck breast (EC$52) or Cajun snapper with rice (EC$43). There's also entertainment every night. Daily 8am-late.

Turner's Beach Bar and Grill Johnson's Point ph 268/462-9133. Delightful little restaurant on another of the best west coast beaches. It's an unpretentious place, with plastic furniture right on the sand, but the cooking is good and the atmosphere mellow. The evening menu includes chicken curry (US$11), grilled red snapper (US$14) and grilled lobster (US$22), as well as rotis (US$7). The lunch menu is the same but slightly pricier. Call ahead for a reservation at night. Daily 11am-9pm.