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Banda de Ipanema's
debut was in1965, when Brazil had just experienced a military
dictatorship. Rio de Janeiro's most irreverent street band was
founded by Albino Pinheiro, and members of the underground tabloid
Pasquim. Albino was in charge of the band until he passed away in
1999, but his spirit will live on forever. Banda de Ipanema became a
major highlight of Carnival in Rio.
A lot of faces came
and went, but some people definitely helped give Banda de
Ipanema its identity. Twins Laura and Delia Carvalho, that marched
with the band until they were eighty, cartoonists Ziraldo and
Jaguar, and the eternal Ipanema icon Leila Diniz (the first muse)
and actress Elke Maravilha are among the people who made this band a
legend.
This is undoubtedly
the most popular, and certainly the most celebrated neighborhood
band in Rio. Its concentration spot is Praça General Osório, the
square where the hippie
fair happens, two blocks away from the beach. Banda de Ipanema
always opens
Carnival festivities in Rio in grand style! The first day of fun is
Saturday, two weeks before Carnival officially begins!
Other Banda de
Ipanema days are Carnival Saturday, and Tuesday. We suggest you
arrive at Rua Jangadeiros around 4:30 p.m. and watch right from
start the most colorful parade of drag queens you will ever see.
They come from all parts of the country and from abroad, to make it
big in Ipanema.
Some become
household names, like the Isabelita dos Patins, Lola Batalhão, and
Rose Bonbon. Each year the band has a different godmother or
godfather. It's usually a local personality that will be waving
their hands from one of the few floats. Although this is definitely
not the main attraction. The action really occurs in the street.
People come from
everywhere to spend summer weekends in Ipanema. The hot samba beat
works like a magnet, and beach-goers soon join in. There aren't any
barricades or partitions to separate the public. Wear your bathing
suits, an elaborate costume, a g-string and a mask ... whatever you
fancy. You won't be breaking any dress codes, and there will surely
be someone else who went a little above and beyond. You may even get
away with complete nudity, as long as you have on some creative body
paint (plus a bodyguard to shoo away more enthusiastic onlookers).
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The band creates a
delicious chaos as it makes its way down the well-manicured streets
of Ipanema. There is a lot of planning involved, and the police are
always there to help divert traffic. You may even escape from the
beer vendors pushing carts at warp speed, but it's impossible to
dodge the hordes frenzied drag queens. One can't help but laugh when
some creature in a 3-foot-tall beehive wig, 12" platform shoes, and
a polka-dot baby doll, starts screaming on the top of her lungs that
you're just the son in law her mother always dreamed of!
The repertoires
played by the band features sambas and marches that have been around
for decades. Even Carmen Miranda hits are still big. Cidade
Maravilhosa ("Marvelous City"), the Rio de Janeiro anthem, is
customarily the first and the last song played.
Do not miss other
South Side Bandas in neighborhoods like Simpatia e Quase Amor,
Copacabana, Leblon, Botafogo, Centro and Jardim Botânico. They
are lots of fun, and definitely worth checking out. But if you only
have time to do only one... make it Banda de Ipanema. Many Cariocas
consider Street Carnival festivities more authentic and democratic
than the Samba Parade.
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Rio
de Janeiro
guide,
hotels
Rio de Janeiro
Brief
history
State
Travel details
Rio de Janeiro
East
Araruama
Cabo Frio
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practicalities
Hotels
in Cabo Frio
Sao Pedro da Aldeia
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Petropolis
Hotels in Petropolis
Itaipava
Teresopolis
Marica
Vassouras &
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Paqueta
Niteroi
Rio Samba & Carnival
Carnival 2
Banda de Ipanema
Brief history
Apothecary Square
Beach sports:
Volleyball
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