Barbados - Speightstown
Small, run-down and utterly charming, Speightstown (pronounced "Spikestown") is the second town of Barbados

 

 
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Small, run-down and utterly charming, SPEIGHTSTOWN (pronounced "Spikestown") is the second town of Barbados, though it remains largely untouched by tourist development. It was once a thriving port, famous for its tough-talking, uncompromising inhabitants - "Speightstown flattery" is an old Bajan term for a back-handed compliment.

Over the last century, however, the place has declined precipitately, and there is little to do today but stroll around and soak up the remnants of the local fishing industry, a few stylish old buildings and a handful of excellent restaurants that cater for day visitors and the guests of nearby hotels.

Buses running up the west coast normally terminate at Speightstown, stopping at the eastern end of Church Street - from here, head down towards the sea, passing the parish church on your right. Queen Street has an unofficial tourist information office in the Fisherman's Pub .

The Town
A mark of Speightstown's former importance is that three major forts were erected to protect it, with several additional gun emplacements scattered along the coast to add to the barrage of any enemy ships (though the only invasion was by the British in 1651). Little remains of the military hardware, but some of the old iron cannons from Fort Orange point out to sea from the Esplanade , to the north of town.

 

 

Across from the Esplanade, St Peter's Parish Church , on Church Street, was first built in the 1630s, making it one of the oldest churches in Barbados. Destroyed by the 1831 hurricane, the Georgian building was rebuilt in a graceful Greek Revival style - though with the standard tower tacked on for good measure - and the present incarnation is the result of superb restoration after the place was gutted by fire in 1980.

Back on the main road, head south across the bridge and past the fish market, always humming with vendors in the early morning. Queen Street is the main drag and has several grand old buildings that have survived the town's decline. Opposite Mango 's restaurant, Arlington , almost medieval in design, is a classic example of the island's early townhouses - narrow, tall and gabled, with a sharply sloping roof. While you're here, cross the road and check out the art gallery of the self-styled Gang of Four - of interest for the local paintings of Gordon Webster, Sarah Venables and Azziza, and the sculpture of Ras Bongo Congo.

 

 




 

 

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Eating and Drinking
Plenty of top-notch restaurants line the "platinum coast", some as good as anything you'll find anywhere in the Caribbean, though prices tend to be high. You'll have to look a bit harder to find interesting low-priced options, but they do exist, and several - including the Fisherman's Pub in Speightstown and the Garden Bar at Angler Apartments - are worth checking out, whatever your budget.

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