Barbuda: Codrington
Man of War Island
, is the home and breeding ground for the largest group of frigate birds anywhere in the Caribbean

 

 
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Codrington, the island's capital and only settlement, holds almost the entire population within its grid of narrow streets. It's a well-spread-out place, with plenty of brightly painted single-storey clapboard or concrete buildings. There are a couple of guesthouses, a handful of restaurants, bars and supermarkets, but, for the most part, people keep to themselves, and there is little sign of life apart from a few curious schoolchildren, dogs and the occasional goat. On Sundays the capital livens up with a cricket match at the Holy Trinity School.

Codrington Lagoon
To the west of town, Codrington Lagoon is an expansive area of green, brackish water, fringed by mangroves. The lagoon is completely enclosed on its western side by the narrow but magnificent strip of Palm Beach , over 13 miles long, but there is a narrow cut to the north where fishing boats can get out to the ocean.

Lobsters breed in the lagoon and you'll probably see them at the pier being loaded for export to Antigua - an important contribution to the local economy. Equally significant - for this is what is starting to bring in the tourists - a series of mangrove clumps to the northwest of the lagoon, known as Man of War Island , is the home and breeding ground for the largest group of frigate birds anywhere in the Caribbean.

 

The sight as you approach them by boat is quite spectacular - the mothers will take to the skies as you draw near, joining the multitude of birds wheeling above you, and leaving their babies standing imperiously on the nest but watching you closely out of the corner of their eyes. The display gets even more dramatic during the mating season, from late August to December, when hundreds of the males put on a grand show - puffing up their bright-red throat pouches as they soar through the air just a few yards above the females, watching admiringly from the bushes.

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