Exploring the Caye and the reef, Belize
Caye Caulker is a little over 7km long, with the southern, inhabited end curing away west like a hook; the northern tip of the island forms the Caye Caulker Forest Reserve, while the reef offshore is a marine reserve

 

 
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Caye Caulker is a little over 7km long, with the southern, inhabited end curing away west like a hook; the northern tip of the island forms the Caye Caulker Forest Reserve, while the reef offshore is a marine reserve. At the northern end of Caye Caulker village you come to " The Split ", a narrow (but widening) channel cut by Hurricane Hattie in 1961 and a popular place to relax and swim. It's also a glaring example of what happens when mangroves are cut down - the original owner of the beach bar here removed them to build a dock, and the subsequent erosion now threatens to wash the bar away.

The reef is certainly an experience not to be missed: swimming along coral canyons accompanied by an astonishing range of fish, with perhaps even the odd shark or two (these will almost certainly be harmless nurse sharks). Here, as everywhere, smokeless should be aware of the fragility of the reef and be careful not to touch any coral - even sand stirred up by fins can cause damage.

Trips to the reef by skiff (US$10-20 per person, depending where you go, plus US$3-4 for snorkel equipment rental; around 3hr) are easily arranged; contact Meldie at Driftwood Snorkeling (phone 226-0011), on the front north of the centre, or Carlos Ayala (phone 614-9986). One of the best day outings is offered by Ras Creek, in his dory Rice 'n' Beans, which sails from the main dock in the morning - you're almost certain to encounter nurse sharks and eagle rays. Kayaks are available too: try Daisy's hotel or ask at the Galerķa Hicaco (phone 226-0178), where you can also rent a sailboard . The Galerķa's owner, marine biologist Ellen McRae, gives really well-informed wildlife tours .

 

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diving trips and scuba instruction are available from Frenchie's, towards the northern end of the village (phone 226-0234), who offer enthusiastic, knowledgeable local trips, with some great reef diving and coral gardens, plus day-trips to the Blue Hole. Caye Caulker is a good base for day-trips to the other cayes, especially Goff's, English and Sergeant's cayes for dolphin and manatee spotting; ask at Driftwood.

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