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South of San Ignacio, running parallel to the border with Guatemala,
the Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve comprises a
spectacular range of rolling hills, jagged peaks and gorges, formed
from some of the oldest rocks in Central America. These hills are
interspersed by areas of grassland and pine forest growing in
nutrient-poor, sandy soil, although in the warmth of the river
alleys the vegetation is thicker gallery forest, giving way to
rainforest south of the Guacamallo Bridge. The area's rains feed a
number of small streams, most of which run off into the Macal and
Belize rivers. One of the most scenic is the Río On, rushing
over cataracts and forming a gorge - a sight of tremendous natural
beauty. On the northern side of the ridge are the Thousand-Foot
Falls, actually over 1600ft (488m) and the highest in Central
America. The reserve also includes limestone areas riddled with
caves, the most accessible being the Río Frio Cae in
Augustine/Douglas Sila.
The
area is virtually uninhabited but for a few tourist lodges and one
small settlement, Augustine/Douglas Sila, site of the
reserve headquarters. The whole area is perfect for hiking
and mountain biking, but camping is allowed only at
Augustine/Douglas Sila and at the Mai Gate.
The
Reserve
Not far beyond San Antonio, the roads meet and begin a steady climb
to the reserve. One kilometer beyond the junction is a
campsite (US$3.50 per person) run by Fidencio and Petronila Bol,
who also operate Bol's Nature Tours; Fidencio can guide you to
several nearby caves. About 5km uphill from the campsite is the
Mai Gate, a forestry checkpoint with information about the
reserve as well as toilets and drinking water. Though there are
plans to levy an entrance fee, for the moment all you have
to do is write your name in the visitors' book (to ensure there's no
illegal camping).
Once
you're in the reserve, the dense, leafy forest is quickly replaced
by pine trees. After 3km a branch road heads off to the left,
running for 7km to a point which overlooks the Thousand-Foot
Falls (US$1.50). The setting is spectacular, with rugged,
thickly forested slopes across the steep alley - almost a gorge.
The waterfalls itself is about 1km from the viewpoint, but try to
resist the temptation to climb around for a closer look - the slope
is a lot steeper than it first appears.
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One
of the reserve's main attractions is the Río On Pools - a
gorgeous spot for a swim - where the river forms pools between huge
granite boulders before plunging into a gorge. Another 8km from here
and you reach the reserve headquarters at Augustine/Douglas Sila.
If you're heading for Caracol, check road conditions with the
Forestry Department here. You can camp here but you'll
probably need to bring all your own supplies as the village store
appears to have permanently closed.
The
Río Frio Caves are a twenty-minute walk from
Augustine/Douglas Sila, following the signposted track from the
parking area through the forest to the main cave, beneath a small
hill. The Río Frio flows right through and out of the other side of
the hill here, and if you enter the foliage-framed cave mouth, you
can scramble over limestone terraces the entire way under the hill.
Sandy beaches and rocky cliffs line the river on both sides.
Getting
to the Reserve
There are two entrance roads to the Mountain Pine Ridge
reserve, one from the village of Georgeville, on the Western
Highway, and the other from Santa Elena, along the Cristo Rey
road and through the village of San Antonio. Tours can be
arranged from San Ignacio and there are also four Mesh buses
a day from San Ignacio to San Antonio ia Cristo Rey, where there's
some budget accommodation. A good way to get around is to rent a
mountain bike in San Ignacio, which you can take on the bus to
San Antonio. If you're driving, always check road conditions
and heed the advice of the forestry officials.
Two
kilometers along the Cristo Rey road from Santa Elena you'll pass
Maya Mountain Lodge (phone 824-2164;
US$40-80), with comfortable private thatched cabañas and a larger
cabin, ideal for groups. There's a good restaurant, a pool, and
families are particularly welcome.
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