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Local travel in Brazil
is always easy. Public transport outside of the Amazon is generally
by bus or plane, though there are a few passenger trains, too.
However you travel, services will be crowded, plentiful and, apart
from planes, cheap.
Car
Car rental is also possible, but driving in Brazil is not for the
faint-hearted. Some international car rental companies have local
agencies and there are quite a few reliable Brazilian ones as well.
Hitchhiking, over any distance, is not recommended
The bus system in Brazil is excellent, as good as anywhere in the
Americas, and makes traveling around the country easy, comfortable
and economical, despite the distances involved. Intercity buses
leave from a station called a Rodoviária , usually built on city
outskirts.
Planes
It's hardly surprising that a country the size of Brazil relies on
air travel a good deal; in some parts of Amazonia air links are more
important than either the roads or rivers. Any town has at least an
airstrip, and all cities have airports, usually some distance from
the city but not always: Santos Dumont in Rio, Guarulhos in São
Paulo and Guararapes in Recife are all pretty central. The main
domestic carriers are VASP ( www.vasp.com.br), Varig (
www.varig.com.br), Transbrasil ( www.transbrasil.com.br) and TAM (
www.tam.com.br); important regional airlines include the Varig
subsidiaries RioSul (mainly serving the south) and RioNordeste
(covering the Amazon region), together with Viabrasil , which
connects São Paulo with Fortaleza, Natal, João Pessoa and Recife in
the Northeast.
Flying to the Northeast or Amazonia from southern Brazil can be
tiresome, as many of these long-distance routes are no more than
glorified bus runs, stopping everywhere before heading north again.
In planning your itinerary, it's a good idea to check carefully how
many times a plane stops - for example, between São Paulo and
Fortaleza a flight may stop as many as four times or as few as one.
On scheduled domestic flights you should check in an hour before
take-off, but expect delays if the plane you're catching is arriving
from elsewhere.
A word of warning : in many parts of Amazonia air travel in small
planes, or aero taxis , is very common - the regional word for these
flights is teco-teco. Before taking one, you should be aware that
the airstrips are often dangerous, the planes routinely fly
overloaded and are not reliably maintained, and no checks are made
on the qualifications of pilots - some don't have any.
Trains
You probably won't be taking many trains in Brazil. Although there's
an extensive rail network, much of it is for cargo only, and even
where there are passenger trains they're almost invariably slower
and less convenient than the buses. Exceptions are a few tourist
journeys worth making for themselves, in the South and Minas Gerais
especially.
Water travel and ferries are also important forms of transport in
parts of Brazil. Specific details are included in the relevant parts
of the Guide, but look out for the ferry to Niterói, without which
no journey to Rio would be complete; Salvador , where there are
regular services to islands and towns in the huge bay on which the
city is built; in the South between the islands of the Bay of
Paranaguá and most of all in Amazonia.
Google maps
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Buses
Buses are operated by hundreds of private companies, but prices are
standardized, even when more than one firm plies the same route, and
are very reasonable: Rio to São Paulo is around $20, Rio to Belo
Horizonte $35, Rio to Foz do Iguaçu $35, São Paulo to Brasília $50,
Recife to Salvador $35 and Fortaleza to Belém $55. Long-distance
buses are comfortable enough to sleep in, and have on-board toilets
(which can get smelly on long journeys): the lower your seat number,
the further away from them you'll be. Buses stop every two or three
hours at well-supplied postos, but as prices are high it's not a bad
idea to bring along water and some food to last the journey. Some
bus companies will supply meal vouchers for use at the postos on
long journeys.
There are luxury buses, too, called leitos, which do nocturnal runs
between the major cities - worth taking once for the experience,
with fully reclining seats in curtained partitions, freshly ironed
sheets and an attendant plying insomniacs with coffee and
conversation. They cost about a third of the price of an air ticket,
and between two and three times as much as a normal long-distance
bus; they're also less frequent and need to be booked a few days in
advance. No matter what kind of bus, it's a good idea to have a
light sweater or blanket during night journeys as the
air-conditioning is always uncomfortably cold.
Driving and car rental
Driving standards in Brazil hover between the abysmal and the
appalling. Brazil has one of the highest death tolls from
driving-related accidents in the world, and on any journey you can
see why, with thundering trucks and drivers treating the road as if
it were a Grand Prix racetrack. City driving would make even an
Italian blanch, and takes a lot of getting used to. Fortunately,
inter-city bus drivers are the exception to the rule: they are
usually very good, and many buses have devices fitted that make it
impossible for them to exceed the speed limit.
Road quality varies according to region: the South and Southeast
have a good paved network; the Northeast has a good network on the
coast but is poor in the interior; and roads in Amazonia are by far
the worst, with even major highways closed for weeks or months at a
time as they are washed away by the rains. Around half of Brazilian
cars now run on alcohol - a mixture of petroleum-based fuel and
alcohol - which is half the price of gasoline, but which works less
efficiently. Outside of the towns and cities, service stations can
be few and far between, so keep a careful eye on the fuel gauge.
Service stations do not accept international credit cards, so make
sure you always have sufficient cash.
City buses
Shoals of local buses clog city streets: you enter at the back -
where route details are posted - and move through a turnstile as you
pay your fare. Fares are all flat-rate, and rarely more than 50¢.
Buses often get unbelievably crowded, and in large cities are
favorite targets for pickpockets. It's safer to go immediately
through the turnstile even when there are seats at the rear, as
assaltantes prefer the backs of buses where they can make a quick
getaway subway systems in Rio, São Paulo, Belo Horizonte, Porto
Alegre and Recife. Again, they're cheap and efficient, and they're
also relatively safe - but, since they weren't built with tourism in
mind, their routes are not always the most useful.
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Brazil
guide
Brazil
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