Restaurants on East Tortola are not only varied, but plentiful. On the other hand, nightlife, with the exception of live music in some restaurants and the odd bar, is practically non-existent.

Bing's Drop-In Bar East End tel 284/495-2627. Primarily a local after-hours dance spot, and a plain old bar the rest of the time. A fun and safe experience for non-locals.

Brandywine Restaurant Brandywine Bay tel 284/495-2301. The gourmet menu at this small estate, which offers fine dining in a peaceful scenic setting, features an array of duck, lamb and seafood dishes in Florentine style. While you may wince at the prices (around US$35 for a three-course meal), it's worth every penny.

Hodges Creek Marina   Calamaya tel 284/495-2126. This funkily designed terrace restaurant overlooking Hodge's Creek Marina fuses Italian and West Indian fare. You can't go wrong with the Cubana grilled sandwich (shrimp, ham, pineapple and cheese), the West Indian roast pork (suckling pig roasted on a spit) or the banana ravioli dessert.

De Loose Mongoose Trellis Bay tel 284/495-2303. Located on the water's edge next to the Beef Island Guest House, this bar and restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Prices are good and the food's decent if unexceptional. There's live music every weekend and Sunday night is beach barbecue night.

Eclipse Fat Hog's Bay tel 284/495-1646. Dishes at this small, homey spot, overlooking Penn's Landing Marina, range from Spanish paella to Thai green curry to Indian biryani. Open for dinner only. Tues-Sat.

Evette Roti Shop Fat Hog's Bay. Right across the street from Penn's Landing Marina, this hole in the wall is a good place to stop for inexpensive roti (rotisserie).

Fat Hog Bob's Fat Hog's Bay tel 284/495-1010. This large, fun-loving place has a spirited ambience that's part Tahitian club room and part American bar and grill. Eat on the patio overlooking the bay or drink at the bar or in the large cocktail lounge. There's a big-screen TV for the major sports events plus live music on the weekends. Open for lunch and dinner. Main "Bob-B-Q" courses start at US$15.

The Last Resort Trellis Bay tel 284/495-2520. Located on an islet in the middle of Trellis Bay (take the two-minute ferry). While dinner is nothing special and not particularly cheap - usually a fish or meat buffet that starts at 7.30pm - the setting and owner Tony Snell's post-dinner cabaret act are worth the trip. Prices start at US$20.

Naomi's Grape Tree Beach Bar Josiah's Bay tel 284/495-2818. This little shack on the beach offers great West Indian breakfast, lunch and dinner at dirt-cheap prices. Plates are colorfully presented and portions are hearty - the juicy cheeseburgers are a highlight.

Secret Garden Josiah's Bay tel 284/495-1834. Part of the Josiah's Bay Plantation Art Gallery, this outdoor café set among the ruins of the original plantation buildings is about as peaceful as you can imagine. The menu includes home-made soups, falafel sandwiches and grilled scallops. Main courses start at US$10.

Tamarind Club. If you're staying on the eastern side of the island this cosy hotel restaurant tucked away in the hills above Josiah's Bay is worth a visit. You can't beat the "Grilled Coeurs (hearts) of Soya Ginger Glazed Swordfish with Mango Salsa and Wasabi".