In winter, Independence Pass on Hwy-82 from Leadville, which provides the quickest access to Aspen, is closed, and the detour through Glenwood Springs adds an extra seventy miles to the trip from Denver.

The airport is four miles north of town on Hwy-82, served by local buses; if you fly into Denver, connecting flights bought in advances only cost another $60 or so.

Or you can take a door-to-door shuttle from the airport (be sure to book in advance); companies include Supershuttle (phone 1-800/258-3826) and Colorado Mountain Express (phone 1-800/222-2112). Numerous airlines fly into Eagle County Airport near ail, eighty minutes from Aspen by car or by Colorado Mountain Express.

Once in Aspen, there's no problem getting around : the Roaring Fork Transit Agency (phone 970/925-8484) runs a free skiers' shuttle between the four mountains and serves the airport and outlying areas. The main Rubey Park transit center terminal is in the center of town on Durant Avenue.

Aspen's visitor center is at 425 Rio Grande Place (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; phone 970/925-1940 or 1-800/290-1324). The free Aspen Daily News ("If you don't want it printed, don't let it happen") is an excellent source of local gossip, news, and food and drink offers.

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