Leadville's visitor center is at 809 Harrison Ave (summer daily 10am-5pm; phone719/486-3900 or 1-800/939-3901). A good place to stay is the historic landmark Delaware Hotel, 700 Harrison Ave (phone719/486-1418 or 1-800/748-2004; $75-160), an atmospheric Victorian place where rates include a full breakfast; south of town on US-24 you'll find a string of cheaper motels, among them the dependable Super 8 (phone719/486-3637; $75-100).

Leadville has a gratifying choice of places to eat and drink . Cloud City Coffee House and Deli, 711 Harrison Ave (phone719/486-1317), serves bagels, buns and espresso in a grand old hotel lobby, while further along the street at no. 612, Columbine Café (phone719/486-3599) dishes up imaginative fresh food with lots of vegetarian options, in simple diner surroundings. There's great Mexican and Southwestern food at the Spartan La Cantina, a mile south on Hwy-24 (phone719/486-9021), which also has dancing at the weekends.

Among Leadville's fine bars, the Pastime Saloon, 120 W Second St (phone719/486-9986), is a local favorite, with a great mountain view from its patio, and delicious wings and burgers. After his performance at the Opera House, Oscar Wilde drank at the wood-paneled Siler Dollar Saloon, 315 Harrison Ave (phone719/486-9914); today, it's a welcoming, atmospheric place, filled with Irish memorabilia.

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