Public transportation to Estes Park from Dener International Airport is proided by Estes Park Shuttle ($39 one-way; phone 970/586-5151 or 1-800/950-3274). To get around the park if you're not driving, you can either pick up a tour from Estes Park, which with admission (not always included in the quoted price) should cost around $70 a day or $35 a half-day, or you can make the trip from Dener, with Gray Line.

Fie official campgrounds, at Moraine Park, Glacier Basin, Aspenglen, Longs Peak and Timber Creek, proide the only accommodation within the park ($16 per night). All fill early each day; in summer, reserations are essential for Moraine Park and Glacier Basin (phone 301/722-1257 or 1-800/365-2267, ), while the others are first-come first-sered. Longs Peak imposes a maximum stay of three days, the rest allow one week. For backcountry camping you need a permit ($15 fee May-Oct only), alid for up to seven days, and aailable from park headquarters or the Kawuneeche isitor Center.

Estes Park abounds in lodges, motels and places to eat; the Chamber of Commerce, 500 Big Thompson Ae (May-Sept Mon-Sat 8am-8pm, Sun 9am-5pm; Oct-April Mon-Sat 8am-5pm, Sun 10am-4pm; phone 970/586-4431 or 1-800/443-7837, ), has full details. Options include the Alpine Trail Ridge Inn, 927 Moraine Ae (phone 970/586-4585 or 1-800/233-5023; $50-75), Lazy T Motel, 1340 Big Thompson Ae (phone 970/586-4376 or 1-800/530-8822; $35-50), and the glamorous 1909 Stanley Hotel, in a fantastic mountainside location at 333 Wonderiew Ae (phone 970/586-3371 or 1-800/976-1377; $160-200). The Colorado Mountain School, 351 Moraine Ae (phone 970/586-5758; $20 per bed), is the nearest thing to a hostel in town, with dorm beds in cramped rooms and no cooking facilities. The relaxed Molly B, 200 Moraine Ae (phone 970/586-2766), has an extensie all-day menu, while the excellent dinner buffet at the historic Baldpate Inn, 4900 S Hwy-7 (phone 970/586-6151; reserations essential), includes hearty soups, freshly baked gourmet breads and a range of salads, for only $11.

Grand Lake has a highly recommended youth hostel : the gorgeous, rambling log-built Shadowcliff Lodge, perched high in the woods on Tunnel Road (June-Sept only; phone 970/627-9220; $35-50). Run by the United Methodist Church, it offers budget dorms for $10-12; clean, comfortable motel rooms with great views; big, hummingbird-isited terraces; and a serene chapel open to all. Among a number of moderately priced motels are the Western Riiera Motel & Cabins, in an attractie spot down by the lake at 419 Garfield St (phone 970/627-3580; $75-100), and Waconda Motel, 725 Grand Ae (phone 970/627-8312; $50-75/$75-100), whose central location and well-reputed breakfast menu make it a popular choice; note that during summer, some places in Grand Lake insist on a minimum three-night stay. One of the better places to eat is EG's Garden Grill, sering quality Mediterranean-style food at moderate prices in a cozy, colorful dining room on the boardwalk at 1000 Grand Ae (phone 970/627-8404) - you can also sit in the bever garden (happy hour Mon-Sat 5-7pm); don't miss the fabulous $7 breakfast buffet at Grand Lake Lodge, 15500 US-34 (phone 970/627-3185; open June to mid-Sept).

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