Surrounded by wide alleys, STEAMBOAT SPRINGS, 65 miles north of ail, looks like no other Colorado mountain resort. Its roots are in ranching rather than mining, and its downtown area still evokes a pioneer feel - until you spot the up market boutiques. In this ski-mad town, rancher-types judge the quality of snowfall by the number of fence wires it covers; they're usually satisfied with a three-wire winter, which corresponds to its average snowfall of 325 inches per year.

The town's top-notch ski resort (lift tickets $59 per day), snuggled into Mount Werner four miles south of downtown, is boosted by such activities as dogsled expeditions, hot-air ballooning and snowmobiling, available in and around town. A favorite year-round activity is to let all the stress seep out at the secluded 105°F Strawberry Park Hot Springs (daily; 10am-midnight; $5-10), six miles north of town but only accessible by 4WD in winter.

If you prefer to stay in town, the Steamboat Springs Health and Recreation Center offers hot mineral pools (6.30am-10pm; $5), as well as workout facility. In the summertime, opportunities for mountain biking, whitewater rafting and horseback riding abound. Outfitters throughout the town can assist you with gear and guides.

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