Most winter visitors fly into Yampa Valley Airport, 22 miles out from Steamboat Springs, though it's possible to drive, weather permitting, from Denver over scenic Rabbit Ears Pass, or take the Alpine Taxi shuttle direct from Denver International Airport (phone 970/879-8294 or 1-800/343-7433; $60). visitor information is at 1255 Lincoln Ave, two miles east of downtown (Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, also Sun 9am-6pm during peak times in summer and winter; phone 970/879-0880, ).

For food, Azteca Taqueria, 402 Lincoln Ave (phone 970/870-9980), has great inexpensive Mexican takeout; for a casual atmosphere and deli-bakery delights try Winotel 970/879-2483); and for more stylish dining, Antares, 57-and-a-third 8th St (phone 970/879-9939), is one of Steamboat's very best, serving an eclectic range of fish and meat dishes. If you'e got money to spare, try the delicious dinner at Hazie's, up on the mountain (open Tues-Sat for lunch and dinner during ski season, Fri and Sat nights during summer; phone 970/879-6111), which includes a free gondola ride; best of all is their superb $26 summer-only Sunday brunch.

Microbrews and decent pub food are available near the ski area at The Tugboat Grill and Pub (phone 970/879-7070), which also has lie music and a dance floor; The Cellar Lounge, 703 Lincoln Ave (phone 970/871-8917), is a good downtown venue for lie bands too.

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