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La Romana,
37km east of San Pedro, has been a one-company town since
the South Porto Rico Sugar Company built the mammoth Central
Romana mill in 1917; it was the only sugar operation not
taken over by Trujillo during his reign. The mill was sold
to Gulf & Western in 1967, who used the profits to diversify
their holdings in the area, constructing the lavish Casa
de Campo resort.
The town itself is not especially
interesting, though nightlife is good and a walk
along the rambling barrio that borders the river's western
bank makes for a pleasant hour. Also worth a visit in winter
is Michelin baseball stadium on Abreu and Luperón at
the city's west end, home of the La Romana Azucareros (check
Santo Domingo newspapers for schedules; RD$50-150 for
tickets) - perhaps not as exciting as the games in San
Pedro, but good play nevertheless.
The Casa de Campo resort just east of La Romana,
accessible via a marked Highway 4 turn-off, is a massive
complex. It costs a bit more than the all-inclusive along
Bávaro Beach, but you'll be spared the security paranoia,
compulsory plastic wristbands and terminally bland buffet
fare of most deluxe Dominican accommodations.
The complex
encompasses seven thousand manicured acres set along the sea
and boasts two golf courses, a 24-hour tennis centre,
fourteen swimming pools, equestrian stables, a sporting clay
course and so forth. In addition to the spacious,
comfortable rooms, there are 150 luxury private villas with
butler, private chef and maid. The crowning pleasure is
Playa Minitas , a gorgeous strand of beach protected by
a shallow coral reef - nice enough that some spend their
whole vacation on it.
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Flanking the resort to the east is another Gulf & Western
brainchild, Altos de Chavón , a high-concept shopping
mall perched atop a cliff looking out over the Chavón River.
Constructed to the specifications of a sixteenth-century
Italian village with artificially aged limestone, it exudes
dreary kitsch like few places in the country, its
cobblestone streets littered with double-parked tour buses
and its "Tuscan" villas crammed to the gills with dime-store
souvenirs.
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Dominican
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La Vega
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