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Two national parks, Bermúdez and Ramírez , protect
much of the mountains, cloud forests and pines present in
the Cordillera Central, each encompassing over seven hundred
square kilometres. By far the best way to explore the region
is on an organized trek up Pico Duarte , at 3087m the
tallest mountain in the Caribbean, which is actually located
between the two parks but generally approached via Bermúdez.
A number of strenuous treks lead up the peak, which towers
over the centre of the range alongside its sister mountain
La Pelona.
The most popular one starts from the tiny pueblo of La
Ciénega, 25km southwest of Jarabacoa, where you'll need to
register for the 46km round-trip at the park's entrance
office on the far side of the village. Here, you'll need to
pay the RD$100 park entrance and hire at least one
guide for every five people (RD$100/day plus meals).
It's also a good idea to rent at least one mule
(RD$125/day) - chances are the guide will insist upon it -
to carry water and food as well as to get you down safely if
things go wrong.
The best bet is to arrive in the afternoon, sort out the
formalities and then camp down in the village with a view to
starting out early the next morning. The first leg is a
comfortable 4km riverside stroll to a bridge across the
river at Los Tablones . Once over the river, however,
the climbing starts for real and you'll gain over 2000m in
the next 14km, mostly on a badly eroded track that wends its
way through some wonderfully wild woodland.
Regular
stops at official picnic sights allow you to get your breath
back and to peep out through the canopy for a glimpse of the
totally pristine wilderness that surrounds you.
You'll spend the night in a ramshackle cabin at La
Comparticíon and then scramble up the last 5km at around
4.30am to be on the bare rocky summit for sunrise. It's
quite a stirring sight to watch the sun creep over the
horizon, casting a bright-red hue on the banks of cloud
beneath your feet.
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Treks can be made any time of the year, but hikes should
never be attempted without a waterproof coat, winter
clothing, a sleeping bag and hiking boots. You'll also need
to bring enough food for yourself and the guide (this is
best bought in Jarabacoa). It's definitely worth considering
the two tour operators who operate trips up this
trail: Iguana Mama, in Cabarete; or Rancho Baiguate, in
Jarabacoa, as they'll take care of all the logistics for
you.
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Dominican
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