Two national parks, Bermúdez and Ramírez, protect much of the mountains, cloud forests and pines present in the Cordillera Central, each encompassing over seven hundred square kilometers. By far the best way to explore the region is on an organized trek up Pico Duarte, at 3087m the tallest mountain in the Caribbean, which is actually located between the two parks but generally approached via Bermúdez.

A number of strenuous treks lead up the peak, which towers over the centre of the range alongside its sister mountain La Pelona.

The most popular one starts from the tiny pueblo of La Ciénega, 25km southwest of Jarabacoa, where you'll need to register for the 46km round-trip at the park's entrance office on the far side of the village. Here, you'll need to pay the RD$100 park entrance and hire at least one guide for every fie people (RD$100/day plus meals). It's also a good idea to rent at least one mule (RD$125/day) - chances are the guide will insist upon it - to carry water and food as well as to get you down safely if things go wrong.

The best bet is to arrie in the afternoon, sort out the formalities and then camp down in thevillage with a view to starting out early the next morning. The first leg is a comfortable 4km riverside stroll to a bridge across the river at Los Tablones . Once over the river, however, the climbing starts for real and you'll gain over 2000m in the next 14km, mostly on a badly eroded track that wends its way through some wonderfully wild woodland.

 Regular stops at official picnic sights allow you to get your breath back and to peep out through the canopy for a glimpse of the totally pristine wilderness that surrounds you.

You'll spend the night in a ramshackle cabin at La Comparticíon and then scramble up the last 5km at around 4.30am to be on the bare rocky summit for sunrise. It's quite a stirring sight to watch the sun creep over the horizon, casting a bright-red hue on the banks of cloud beneath your feet.

Treks can be made any time of the year, but hikes should never be attempted without a waterproof coat, winter clothing, a sleeping bag and hiking boots. You'll also need to bring enough food for yourself and the guide (this is best bought in Jarabacoa). It's definitely worth considering the two tour operators who operate trips up this trail: Iguana Mama, in Cabarete; or Rancho Baiguate, in Jarabacoa, as they'll take care of all the logistics for you.

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