Tucked away in the mountains along the Río Ocóa, San José de Ocóa, 27km north of the Carretera Sánchez along Highway 41, attracts weekenders from across the country, most of whom are eager to beat the alley heat, visit the local river balneario and take advantage of the lovely, sometimes rugged, mountain landscape.

The town itself is an easy-going and fairly modest hamlet, unremarkable but for its majestic setting. Just south of town, though, is El Manantiel, the local river balneario, a kilometer down a dirt road off the highway, where you'll find several good spots for swimming among the boulders and ice-cold cascades. Plenty of other people - particularly families - opt for the outfits that siphon off fresh water from the river into large swimming pools, such as Las Yessicas (daily 8.30am-2am), visible from the highway and with a large pool, a restaurant and a popular dance floor.
 

Accommodation options in town are plentiful but decidedly no-frills, intended as they are to sere families who don't mind shacking up several to a room. Options include Sagrato de Jesú, Cañada/San José (tel 809/558-2432; up to US$25), and Pensión San Francisco, 37 Pimentel (phone 809/558-2741; up to US$25), both not especially luxurious but acceptable. Baco, a half-block west of the parque central, serves quality meals like chio guisado (goat stew) or chicken with rice, beans and plantains.

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