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Bicycles
( élos ) have high status in France. All the car ferries
carry them for nothing; the SNCF makes minimal charges; and the
French (Parisians excepted) respect cyclists - both as traffic and,
when you stop off at a restaurant or hotel, as customers. In
addition many municipalities and départements are actively
promoting cycling, not only with city paths, but comprehensive
networks linking rural areas (frequently utilizing disused roadways
and rail right-of-ways). These days more and more cyclists are using
mountain bikes, which the French call TTs ( élos tout
terrain ), even for touring holidays, although it's much less
effort,
and much quicker, to cycle long distances and carry luggage on a
traditionally styled touring or racing bike.
Restaurants and hotels along the way are nearly always obliging about
looking after your bike, even to the point of allowing it into your
room. Most large towns have well-stocked retail and repair shops, where parts are normally cheaper than in Britain or the US. However,
if you're using a foreign-made bike with non-standard metric wheels,
it's a good idea to carry spare tires. Inner tubes are not a problem, as
they adapt to either size, though make sure you get the right ales.
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Otherwise it needs to be sent on
unaccompanied, with a guaranteed arrival of 24 hours (you can register
it up to ten days in advance; book through Esprit Europe phone
0800/186186); the fee is £20 one way.
The
train network runs various schemes for cyclists, all of them
covered by the free leaflet Guide du Train et du élo, available
from most stations. Trains marked with a bicycle in the timetable allow
you to take a bike as free accompanied luggage. Otherwise, you have to
send your bike parceled up as registered luggage for a fee of
150F/?22.88. Although it may well arrive in less time, the SNCF won't
guarantee delivery in under fie days; and you do hear stories of
bicycles disappearing altogether.
You
can normally load your bike straight onto the train at the ferry
port -
as on the boat
train at Dieppe - but remember that you must first go to the ticket
office of the station to register it.
Don't just try to climb on the
train with it, as both you and your bike will end up left behind.
Ferries either take bikes free or charge a maximum of £5 one way.
British Airways and Air France both take bikes free - you may have to
box them though, and you should contact the airlines first.
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Eurostar
allow you to take your bicycle as part of your baggage allowance
provided it is dismantled and stored in a special bike bag, and the
dimensions don't exceed 120cm by 90cm.
Bikes - usually mountain bikes - are often a available to rent from
campsites, hostels and gîtes d'étapes, as well as from
specialist cycle shops and some tourist offices for around 80F/?12.20
per day; these machines are likely to be more reliable, though more
expensive, than those of the SNCF. The bikes are often not insured,
however, and you will be presented with the bill for its replacement if
it's stolen or damaged. Check whether your travel insurance policy
covers you for this if you intend to rent a bike.
As
for maps, a minimum requirement is the IGN 1:100,000 series -
the smallest scale that carries contours. In the UK, the Cyclists'
Touring Club, Cotterell House, 68 Meadrow, Godalming, Surrey GU7 3HS (phone
01483/417 217, fax 01483/426 994, cycling@ctc.org.uk ), will
suggest routes and supply advice for members (£25 p.a. or £12.50 for
unemployed). They run a particularly good insurance scheme.
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