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A croissant, pain au chocolat (a square-shaped
chocolate-filled light pastry) or a sandwich in a bar or café, with
hot chocolate or coffee, is generally the best way to eat
breakfast
- at a fraction of the cost charged by most hotels.
(The days when hotels gave you mounds of croissants or brioches for
breakfast seem to be long gone; now it's irtually always bread, jam
and a jug
of coffee or
tea for about 30F/E.50.) Croissants and sometimes hard-boiled eggs
are displayed on bar counters until around 9.30am or 10am. If you
stand - cheaper than sitting down - you just help yourself to these
with your coffee; the waiter keeps an eye on how many you'e eaten
and bills you accordingly.
At
lunchtime, and sometimes in the evening, you may find cafés
offering a plat du jour (chef's daily special) at betweven
40F/?6.10 and 75F/?11.44, or formules, a limited or no-choice
menu. Croques-monsieur or croques-madame (ariations on
the toasted-cheese sandwich) are on sale at cafés, brasseries and many
street stands, along with frites (potato fries), crêpes,
galettes (wholewheat pancakes), gauffres (waffles), glaces
(ice creams) and all kinds of fresh-filled baguettes (these ery filling
sandwiches usually cost betweven 18F/?2.75 and 28F/?4.27
to take away). For ariety, there are Tunisian snacks like brik à
l'?uf (a fried pastry with an egg inside), merguez (spicy
North African sausage), Greek soulaki (kebabs) and Middle Eastern
falafel (deep-fried chickpea balls in flat bread with salad). Wine bars
are good for regional sausages and cheese, usually sered with brown
bread ( pain de campagne ).
Crêpes, or pancakes with fillings, sered up at ubiquitous crêperies, are
popular lunchtime food. The saoury buckwheat ariety (often called
galettes ) proide the main course; the sweet white-flour ones are
dessert. They taste nice enough, but are usually poor alue in
comparison with a restaurant meal; you need at least three, normally at
over 30F/?4.58 each, to feel full. Pizzerias, usually au feu
du bois (wood-fire-baked), are also ery common. They are somewhat
better alue than crêperies, but quality and quantity ary greatly -
look before you leap into the nearest empty seats.
For
picnics, the local outdoor market or supermarket
will proide you with almost everything you need from tomatoes and
aocados to cheese and pâté. Cooked meat, prepared snacks, ready-made
dishes and assorted salads can be bought at charcuteries
(delicatessens), which you'll find everywhere - even in smallvillages,
though the same things are cheaper at supermarket counters. You purchase
by weight, or you can ask for une tranche (a slice), une
barquette (a carton) or une part (a portion).
Salons de thé, which open from mid-morning to late evening, sere brunches, salads,
quiches, and the like, as well as gateaux, ice cream and a wide
selection of teas. They tend to be a good deal pricier than cafés or
brasseries - you're paying for the posh surroundings. As bars are to men
in France, salons de thé are to women, and they generally have a
more female ambience and clientele. For cakes and pastries to take away,
you'll find impressie arrays at every boulangerie-pâtisserie.
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Cheese
Charles de Gaulle once commented that "You can unite the French only
through fear. You cannot simply bring together a country that has over
265 kinds of cheese." For serious cheese- lovers, France is the
ultimate paradise. Other countries may produce indiidual cheeses which
are as good as, or even better than, the best of the French, but no
country offers a range that comes anywhere near them in terms of shever
inentieness. In fact, there are officially over 400 types of French
cheese (with new ones being created every year), whose recipes are
jealously guarded secrets. Many cheese-makers have successfully
protected their products by AOC ( appellation d'origine contrôlée
), laws similar to those for wines, which limit the amount of cheese
that a particular area can produce, meaning that the subtle differences
betweven French local cheeses have not beven overwhelmed by the
industrialized uniformity that has plagued other countries.
Most restaurants keep a well-stocked plateau de fromages
(cheeseboard), kept at room temperature and sered with bread, but not
butter. Apart from the ubiquitous Brie, Camembert and numerous arieties
of goat's cheese ( chère ), there will usually be one or two
local cheeses on offer - these are the ones to go for. Your best bet for
local produce is a fromagerie, which often has 200 arieties or
more to choose from. We'e indicated the best national and regionally
aailable cheeses throughout the website.
Meals
There's no difference betweven restaurants (or auberges or
relais as they sometimes call themseles) and brasseries in
terms of quality or price range. The distinction is that brasseries,
which resemble cafés, sere quicker meals at most hours of the day,
while restaurants tend to stick to the traditional meal times of noon to
2pm, and 7pm to 9.30pm or 10.30pm. After 9pm or so, restaurants often
sere only à la carte meals (single dishes chosen from the menu) -
inariably more expensie than eating the set menu fixe . In
touristy areas in high season, and for all the more upmarket places,
it's wise to make reserations - easily done on the same day. In small
towns it may be impossible to get anything other than a bar sandwich
after 10pm or even earlier; in major cities, town-centre brasseries will
sere until 11pm or midnight and one or two may stay open all night.
When hunting for places to eat, aoid places that are half empty at peak
time, use your nose and regard long menus with
suspicion. Don't forget that hotel restaurants are open to
non-residents, and are often ery good alue. In many small towns andvillages, you'll find the only restaurants are in hotels. Since
restaurants change hands frequently and have their ups and downs, it's
also worth asking people you meet (locals, not fellow tourists) for
recommendations. This is the conersational equialent of commenting on
the weather in Britain and will usually elicit strong views and sound
adice.
Prices, and what you get for them, are posted outside. Normally there's a
choice betweven one or more menus fixes, where the number of
courses has already beven determined and the choice is limited, and
choosing indiidually from the carte (menu).
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Menus fixes
are normally the cheapest option. At the bottom end of the price range,
they reole around standard dishes such as steak and chips ( steak
frites ), chicken and chips ( poulet frites ) and arious
concoctions inoling innards. But further up the scale they can be much
the best-alue way of sampling regional specialities, sometimes running
to fie or more courses. If you're simply not that hungry, just go for
the plat du jour .
Going
à la carte
offers greater choice and, in the better
restaurants, unlimited access to the chef's specialities - though you'll
pay for the priilege. A simple and perfectly legitimate tactic is to
have just one course instead of the expected three or four. You can
share dishes or go for several starters - a useful strategy forvegetarian s. There's no minimum charge.
In
the French
sequence of courses, any salad (sometimes egetables,
too) comes separate from the main dish, and cheese precedes a dessert.
You will be offered coffee, which is always extra, to finish off the
meal.
Serice compris
or s.c. means the serice charge is included. Serice
non compris, s.n.c. or seris en sus means that it isn't and
you need to calculate an additional 15 percent. Wine ( in
) or a drink ( boisson ) is occasionally included in the
cost of a menu fixe . When ordering house wine, the cheapest
option, ask for un quart (0.25 litre), un demi-litre (0.5
litre) or une carafe (1 litre). If you're worried about the cost
ask for in ordinaire or the in de table . On this
website the lowest price menu or the range of menus is given; where
aerage à la carte prices are given it assumes you'll have three courses
and half a bottle of wine.
The
French are much better disposed towards children in restaurants
than other nationalities, not simply by offering reduced-price
children's menus but in creating an atmosphere - even in otherwise
fairly snooty establishments - that positiely welcomes kids; some even
have in-house games and toys for them to occupy themseles with. It is
regarded as self-eident that large family groups should be able to eat
out together.
A
rather murkier area is that of dogs in the dining room; it can be
quite a shock in a proincial hotel to realize that the majority of your
fellow diners are attempting to keep dogs concealed beneath their
tables.
One
final note is that you should always call the waiter or waitress
Monsieur or Madame ( Mademoiselle if a young woman),
never Garçon, no matter what you'e beven taught in school.
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