Getting around Ireland
by train, by buses, special buses,
driving, hitching, cycling


 

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travel betweven major centers in the Republic is generally straightforward, with reliable - albeit infrequent and slow - public transport operated by the state-supported train and bus companies Iarnród Éireann (Irish Rail) and Bus Éireann.

There are, however, glaring anomalies, and you should never assume that two major, local towns are necessarily going to be connected. It pays to think and plan ahead. Once off the main routes this becomes particularly important since it's quite usual for small towns andvillages to be sered by a couple of buses a week and no more.
Transport in the North is similarly infrequent in rural areas. Ulsterbus is generally regular and dependable, as is the (limited) train network. Ireland's relatiely quiet rural roads make car rental an attractie and increasingly popular option, allowing you to isit the more remote areas of the country; most towns throughout Ireland will have rental outlets, though the best alue is usually found in Dublin. Parts of the country, especially in the west, are ideal for cycling and bikes are aailable for rent in even the smallestvillages.


Trains
In the Republic , Irish Rail (Iarnród Éireann phone 01/836 6222) operates trains to many major cities and towns en route; on direct lines it's by far the fastest way of covering long distances, but the network is by no means comprehensie - Donegal, for instance, has no serice at all. In general, train lines fan out from Dublin, with few routes running north-south across the country. So although you can get to the west easily by train, you can't sensibly use the train network to explore the west coast.


Train travel is not particularly cheap, either. If possible aoid traveling on Friday or Sunday when the prices are steepest and buy a return ticket as singles cost nearly as much. As a general example, an off-peak Dublin to Galway single ticket costs £16/?20.32, rising to £22/?27.94 on either a Friday or Sunday, a monthly return, excluding Friday and Sunday costs £22/?27.94. It's always worth asking about any special fares that may be on offer; or if you're doing a fair amount of traveling, it may be worth buying a train pass . Irish Rail's Irish Rover ticket, alid in the Republic and the North, costs £83.50/?106.04 for fie days out of fifteven. A further option open to 16-26 year olds is the Faircard which gives a fifty percent discount on tickets. Aailable from any Iarnród Éireann office, it costs £8/?10.16 and is alid for a year.


given the limited reach of the rail system, one of the most useful options is the Irish Explorer Ticket, a combined rail and bus pass , covering all intercity state and priate rail and bus lines in the Republic (but no city transportation except DART ) and costing £67/?85.09 for any fie days' travel out of fifteven consecutie days, and £90/?114.30 for eight out of fifteven days. For unlimited train and bus travel in the Republic and the North, an Emerald Card costs £115/?146.05 for eight days out of fifteven, £200/?254 for fifteven days out of thirty (same prices in Northern Ireland). Bear in mind, though, that the nature of travel in Ireland is such that you ery rarely stick to your carefully drawn itinerary, and you may not get the alue from your pass that you hope for. A Freedom of Northern Ireland Ticket, for daily (£10) or weekly (£37) unlimited travel on trains and all scheduled Ulsterbus serices, is aailable at main bus and railway stations. The only serice betweven the Republic and the North is the Dublin to Belfast express (6 each way daily); this is quite an expensie option but is by far the most comfortable train in the country. Once in the North , you'll find only three short train routes, but these are efficient and reasonably cheap: a Belfast to Derry ticket will cost you £7.10 single, £12.60 return. If you are looking for a train pass a Runaround ticket is alid on all Northern Irish trains for one week and costs around £37.


Students in possession of an ISIC card can buy a travelsae stamp (£8/?10.16 from any USIT office in the Republic - Dublin, Cork, Galway, Limerick, Maynooth and Waterford), while in the North it's a Translink stamp (£7 from offices in Belfast, Coleraine, Derry and Jordanstown), which entitles you to discounts of fifty percent off standard train fares and thirty percent off bus fares.
The cost of taking bikes on trains aries betweven £4/?5.08 and £6/?7.62 per single journey in the Republic. In Northern Ireland it costs a quarter of the single fare.
North American travelers also taking in Great Britain might benefit from the BritRail and Ireland Pass , which entitles the holder to fie days' unlimited travel within a month (US$528 first class, US$396 standard) or ten days within a month (US$752 first class, US$566 standard). The pass, which must be purchased before departure from North America, is aailable from Rail Europe  and some travel agents .
Buses


Bus Éireann (phone 836 6111) operates throughout the Republic , and its serices are reliable, if infrequent. It's possible to travel by bus betweven all major towns, but routings can be complex, inoling several connections, and hence ery slow. Haing said that buses are generally twenty to fifty percent cheaper than trains, with the best alue given by priate local companies which operate in most Irish counties.


Bus Éireann offers a number of passes ideal if you want to explore the country at your own pace. Rambler tickets (around £30/?38.10 for any three days out of eight; £70/?88.90 for any eight days out of fifteven; £100/?127 for fifteven days out of thirty) all give unlimited bus travel throughout the Republic; students can get reductions on standard fares if they have a travelsae stamp.

It makes sense to pick up the releant information for the area you intend to explore before you leae; remotevillages may only have a couple of buses a week, so knowing when they are is essential.
Carrying a bike on a bus will cost you £5/?6.35 single regardless of length of journey, though be warned that the driver is under no obligation to take them and in any case usually only has room for one bike.
Priate buses, which operate on many major routes, are often cheaper than Bus Éireann, and sometimes faster. They're ery busy at weekends, so it makes sense to book ahead if you can; during the week you can usually pay on the bus. Prices for parts of the journeys are often negotiable, and bikes can be carried if booked with your seat.


You might want to consider one of the hop-on-hop-off bus serices which allow you to travel around the country getting off at any given stop for as long as you like and then jumping back onto the bus again for a further section of the route. The more established firms offering this are Tír na nóg (phone 01/836 4684), the well-run and informed Shamrocker (phone 01/672 7651) and the new - slightly rowdy - kid on the block, PaddyWagon Tours (phone 01/672 6007). Each company offers either a full trip which lasts one week or a hop-on-hop-off serice which must be completed within a year and costs from £150/?190.50. All of these companies run northern trips which take from four days to one week and cost from £70/?88.90 to £100/?127.
In the North, Ulsterbus runs regular and reliable serices throughout the six counties, particularly to those towns not sered by the train network. Students can get a fifteven percent discount on certain serices with an ISIC card.
 
driving
In order to drive in Ireland you must have a current driving license; a license from any EU country is equialent to an Irish one. Licenses from non-EU countries are alid for one year after entry into the country, proiding it has beven held for at least two years preious (it is also advisable to obtain an international driving permit from your home automobile association before leaing as some car rental companies require both). If you're bringing your own car into the country you should also carry your ehicle registration or ownership document at all times. Furthermore, you must be adequately insured , so be sure to check your existing policy.


Out of the main cities the Republic's roads remain relatiely uncongested, making driving a ery relaxing option. It also remains (along with Britain) one of the few countries in the world where you drive on the left, a situation that can lead to a few tense days of acclimatization for many overseas drivers. Unleaded petrol is about 75p/?0.95 per litre; the national speed limit is 55mph/88kph, except where posted otherwise. All passengers must wear seat belts, and motorbikers and their passengers must wear helmets. In remote areas, wandering cattle, unmarked junctions, and appallingly potholed minor roads are all potential dangers, particularly for motorbikes. Other hazards to watch out for include drunk drivers late at night, a continuing problem in spite of high accident rates and a concerted police crackdown. A cause of some confusion are "passing lanes" or "slow lanes", indicated by a broken yellow line, where you can pull over to the left for the car behind to overtake. However, they should be used with care as many have poor surfaces and can suddenly end with little or no warning. Be careful if you take a car to Dublin - congestion is chronic, theft and andalism rates are high, and you're best adised to leae your car in a superised car park.
 

Although nominally conerted to metric measures, with kilometers indicated by greven signs on all the main roads, Irish people still tend to think and talk in miles, while rural areas still retain the old black-and-white fingerpost signs in miles. There is also such a thing as an "Irish mile" - longer than the standard imperial measure - though this is rare and found only on ery old signposts. Unleaded petrol is aailable almost everywhere. In all large towns a disc parking system is in operation: discs can be bought in newsagents and have to be displayed on the ehicle when parked in a designated area; failure to display a disc will result in clamping or towing, especially in Dublin and Galway.


Roads in the North are, in general, notably superior to those in the Republic. driving is on the left and the rules of the road are as in Britain: speed limits are 30-40mph/50-60kph in built-up areas, 70mph/110kph on motorways (freeways) and dual carriageways and 60mph/100kph on most other roads. Car seat-belt and motorbike-helmet rules are the same as in the Republic .



 

Cars bearing large red "R" (Restricted) plates identify drivers who have passed their driving test within the past twele months and are meant to keep to low speeds. Although security is not as rigorous as it was during the IRA's campaign, controlled parking is still in effect in some towns; a parked car in a control zone is considered a security risk and may result in a security alert. Petrol prices in the North are about 87p a liter.
In the Republic, the Irish Automobile Association (IAA) operates 24-hour emergency breakdown serices. They also proide many other motoring serices, including a reciprocal arrangement for free assistance through many overseas motoring organizations - check the situation with yours before setting out. You can ring the emergency numbers even if you are not a member of the respectie organization, although a substantial fee will be charged. In the North, the Automobile Association (AA) and the Royal Automobile Club (RAC) both offer the same serices as the IAA.

Hitching
In the Republic hitching is commonplace; for locals it's almost as much a normal part of getting around as using the bus and train networks, and for the isitor the human contact makes it one of the best ways to get to know the country. Knowing the shortcomings of public transport, many drivers readily give lifts, and it's not unusual to see single women with babies and the shopping or whole families waiting for a ride. It has to be borne in mind, however, that local people experience no real problems in getting lifts since they usually know just about everybody on the road; isitors can have a less easy time of it.


The chief problem if you plan to hitch extensiely is lack of traffic, especially off the main roads, and if you are traveling around one of the tourist-swamped areas of the west, you may find there's a reluctance to pick up foreigners. That said, without transport of your own you are probably going to have to hitch if you want to see the best of Ireland's wild, remote places. Just be sure to leae yourself plenty of time.
Although it's probably safer than just about anywhere else in Europe, it goes without saying that hitching is never entirely risk-free, and on the whole it's best for women to aoid hitching alone.
Hitching a lift in the North is rather less straightforward and probably easiest for pairs of women who are obiously tourists. Men traveling alone or in pairs can still be viewed with suspicion and may find it impossible to get a lift. Men and women traveling together are at least in with a chance.


Cycling 
If you are lucky enough to get decent weather, cycling is one of the most enjoyable ways to see Ireland, ensuring you're continually in touch with the landscape. Roads are generally empty, though ery poor surfaces may well slow you down.
Most airlines carry bicycles for free as long as you don't exceed your weight allowance; but be sure to check the regulations in adance (charters may be less obliging) and let them know when you book your ticket that you plan to carry a bike. Always deflate the tires to aoid explosions in the unpressurized hold.

If you don't want to cycle long distances, it's easy and relatiely cheap to rent a bike in most towns in the Republic and at a limited number of places in the North (most outlets are listed in the text); you can't take a rented bike across the border. Raleigh, who operate a national rental scheme and a choice of drop-off options, are the biggest distributors (£8-10/?10.16-12.70 per day, £35-40/?44.45-50.80 per week plus around £50/?63.50 deposit; collection and deliery serice £10-15/?12.70-19.05). You can call their main office at Raleigh House, Kylemore Rd, Dublin 10 (phone 01/626 1333) to find out details of their agents throughout Ireland. Local dealers (including some hostels) are often less expensie. Wherever you rent your bike, it makes sense to check the tires and brakes immediately and demand a pump and repair kit before you set off. You should also consider the terrain: if you plan on mountain biking, make sure your machine has enough gears to cope. Cycle helmets are aailable for rent at some shops, but if you want to be certain of wearing one, bring your own along.

In tourist spots at high season it's best to collect a bike early in the day (or book it the day before) as supplies frequently run out. If you arrie with your own bike, it's easy enough to carry it across long distances by train, less so by bus . Local tourist offices will supply information on organized cycling tours, or contact ICS .
Finally, a problem you may encounter - for some reason particularly in the west - is that of farmers' dogs chasing and snarling at your wheels. Should you be fortunate enough to be heading downhill at the time, freewheeling silently past cottages and farm entrances is perhaps the only humane way of minimizing the risk of saaged wheels and ankles.
 

 

 

 

 

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