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Travel between
major centers in the Republic is generally straightforward,
with reliable - albeit infrequent and slow - public
transport operated by the state-supported train and bus
companies Iarnród Éireann (Irish Rail) and Bus Éireann.
There are, however, glaring anomalies, and you should never
assume that two major, local towns are necessarily going to
be connected. It pays to think and plan ahead. Once off the
main routes this becomes particularly important since it's
quite usual for small towns and villages to be served by a
couple of buses a week and no more.
Transport in the North is similarly infrequent in rural
areas. Ulsterbus is generally regular and dependable, as is
the (limited) train network. Ireland's relatively quiet
rural roads make car rental an attractive and increasingly
popular option, allowing you to visit the more remote areas
of the country; most towns throughout Ireland will have
rental outlets, though the best value is usually found in
Dublin. Parts of the country, especially in the west, are
ideal for cycling and bikes are available for rent in even
the smallest villages.
Trains
In the Republic , Irish Rail (Iarnród Éireann phone 01/836
6222) operates trains to many major cities and towns en
route; on direct lines it's by far the fastest way of
covering long distances, but the network is by no means
comprehensive - Donegal, for instance, has no service at
all. In general, train lines fan out from Dublin, with few
routes running north-south across the country. So although
you can get to the west easily by train, you can't sensibly
use the train network to explore the west coast.
Train travel is not particularly cheap, either. If possible
avoid traveling on Friday or Sunday when the prices are
steepest and buy a return ticket as singles cost nearly as
much. As a general example, an off-peak Dublin to Galway
single ticket costs £16/?20.32, rising to £22/?27.94 on
either a Friday or Sunday, a monthly return, excluding
Friday and Sunday costs £22/?27.94. It's always worth asking
about any special fares that may be on offer; or if you're
doing a fair amount of traveling, it may be worth buying a
train pass . Irish Rail's Irish Rover ticket, valid in the
Republic and the North, costs £83.50/?106.04 for five days
out of fifteen. A further option open to 16-26 year olds is
the Faircard which gives a fifty percent discount on
tickets. Available from any Iarnród Éireann office, it costs
£8/?10.16 and is valid for a year.
Given the limited reach of the rail system, one of the most
useful options is the Irish Explorer Ticket, a combined rail
and bus pass , covering all intercity state and private rail
and bus lines in the Republic (but no city transportation
except DART ) and costing £67/?85.09 for any five days'
travel out of fifteen consecutive days, and £90/?114.30 for
eight out of fifteen days. For unlimited train and bus
travel in the Republic and the North, an Emerald Card costs
£115/?146.05 for eight days out of fifteen, £200/?254 for
fifteen days out of thirty (same prices in Northern
Ireland). Bear in mind, though, that the nature of travel in
Ireland is such that you very rarely stick to your carefully
drawn itinerary, and you may not get the value from your
pass that you hope for. A Freedom of Northern Ireland
Ticket, for daily (£10) or weekly (£37) unlimited travel on
trains and all scheduled Ulsterbus services, is available at
main bus and railway stations. The only service between the
Republic and the North is the Dublin to Belfast express (6
each way daily); this is quite an expensive option but is by
far the most comfortable train in the country. Once in the
North , you'll find only three short train routes, but these
are efficient and reasonably cheap: a Belfast to Derry
ticket will cost you £7.10 single, £12.60 return. If you are
looking for a train pass a Runaround ticket is valid on all
Northern Irish trains for one week and costs around £37.
Students in possession of an ISIC card can buy a Travelsave
stamp (£8/?10.16 from any USIT office in the Republic -
Dublin, Cork, Galway, Limerick, Maynooth and Waterford),
while in the North it's a Translink stamp (£7 from offices
in Belfast, Coleraine, Derry and Jordanstown), which
entitles you to discounts of fifty percent off standard
train fares and thirty percent off bus fares.
The cost of taking bikes on trains varies between £4/?5.08
and £6/?7.62 per single journey in the Republic. In Northern
Ireland it costs a quarter of the single fare.
North American travelers also taking in Great Britain might
benefit from the BritRail and Ireland Pass , which entitles
the holder to five days' unlimited travel within a month
(US$528 first class, US$396 standard) or ten days within a
month (US$752 first class, US$566 standard). The pass, which
must be purchased before departure from North America, is
available from Rail Europe and some travel agents .
Buses
Bus Éireann (phone 836 6111) operates throughout the Republic , and
its services are reliable, if infrequent. It's possible to travel by
bus between all major towns, but routings can be complex, involving
several connections, and hence very slow. Having said that buses are
generally twenty to fifty percent cheaper than trains, with the best
value given by private local companies which operate in most Irish
counties.
Bus Éireann offers a number of passes ideal if you want to explore
the country at your own pace. Rambler tickets (around £30/?38.10 for
any three days out of eight; £70/?88.90 for any eight days out of
fifteen; £100/?127 for fifteen days out of thirty) all give
unlimited bus travel throughout the Republic; students can get
reductions on standard fares if they have a Travelsave stamp.
It makes sense to pick
up the relevant information for the area you intend to explore
before you leave; remote villages may only have a couple of buses a
week, so knowing when they are is essential.
Carrying a bike on a bus will cost you £5/?6.35 single regardless of
length of journey, though be warned that the driver is under no
obligation to take them and in any case usually only has room for
one bike.
Private buses, which operate on many major routes, are often cheaper
than Bus Éireann, and sometimes faster. They're very busy at
weekends, so it makes sense to book ahead if you can; during the
week you can usually pay on the bus. Prices for parts of the
journeys are often negotiable, and bikes can be carried if booked
with your seat.
You might want to consider one of the hop-on-hop-off bus services
which allow you to travel around the country getting off at any
given stop for as long as you like and then jumping back onto the
bus again for a further section of the route. The more established
firms offering this are Tír na nóg (phone 01/836 4684), the well-run
and informed Shamrocker (phone 01/672 7651) and the new - slightly
rowdy - kid on the block, PaddyWagon Tours (phone 01/672 6007). Each
company offers either a full trip which lasts one week or a
hop-on-hop-off service which must be completed within a year and
costs from £150/?190.50. All of these companies run northern trips
which take from four days to one week and cost from £70/?88.90 to
£100/?127.
In the North, Ulsterbus runs regular and reliable services
throughout the six counties, particularly to those towns not served
by the train network. Students can get a fifteen percent discount on
certain services with an ISIC card.
Driving
In order to drive in Ireland you must have a current driving
license; a license from any EU country is equivalent to an Irish
one. Licenses from non-EU countries are valid for one year after
entry into the country, providing it has been held for at least two
years previous (it is also advisable to obtain an international
driving permit from your home automobile association before leaving
as some car rental companies require both). If you're bringing your
own car into the country you should also carry your vehicle
registration or ownership document at all times. Furthermore, you
must be adequately insured , so be sure to check your existing
policy.
Out of the main cities the Republic's roads remain relatively
uncongested, making driving a very relaxing option. It also remains
(along with Britain) one of the few countries in the world where you
drive on the left, a situation that can lead to a few tense days of
acclimatization for many overseas drivers. Unleaded petrol is about
75p/?0.95 per litre; the national speed limit is 55mph/88kph, except
where posted otherwise. All passengers must wear seat belts, and motorbikers and their passengers must wear helmets. In remote areas,
wandering cattle, unmarked junctions, and appallingly potholed minor
roads are all potential dangers, particularly for motorbikes. Other
hazards to watch out for include drunk drivers late at night, a
continuing problem in spite of high accident rates and a concerted
police crackdown. A cause of some confusion are "passing lanes" or
"slow lanes", indicated by a broken yellow line, where you can pull
over to the left for the car behind to overtake. However, they
should be used with care as many have poor surfaces and can suddenly
end with little or no warning. Be careful if you take a car to
Dublin - congestion is chronic, theft and vandalism rates are high,
and you're best advised to leave your car in a supervised car park.
Although nominally converted to metric measures, with kilometers
indicated by green signs on all the main roads, Irish people still
tend to think and talk in miles, while rural areas still retain the
old black-and-white fingerpost signs in miles. There is also such a
thing as an "Irish mile" - longer than the standard imperial measure
- though this is rare and found only on very old signposts. Unleaded
petrol is available almost everywhere. In all large towns a disc
parking system is in operation: discs can be bought in newsagents
and have to be displayed on the vehicle when parked in a designated
area; failure to display a disc will result in clamping or towing,
especially in Dublin and Galway.
Roads in the North are, in general, notably superior to
those in the Republic. Driving is on the left and the rules
of the road are as in Britain: speed limits are
30-40mph/50-60kph in built-up areas, 70mph/110kph on
motorways (freeways) and dual carriageways and 60mph/100kph
on most other roads. Car seat-belt and motorbike-helmet
rules are the same as in the Republic .
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Cars bearing
large red "R" (Restricted) plates identify drivers who have
passed their driving test within the past twelve months and
are meant to keep to low speeds. Although security is not as
rigorous as it was during the IRA's campaign, controlled
parking is still in effect in some towns; a parked car in a
control zone is considered a security risk and may result in
a security alert. Petrol prices in the North are about 87p a
liter.
In the Republic, the Irish Automobile Association (IAA)
operates 24-hour emergency breakdown services. They also
provide many other motoring services, including a reciprocal
arrangement for free assistance through many overseas
motoring organizations - check the situation with yours
before setting out. You can ring the emergency numbers even
if you are not a member of the respective organization,
although a substantial fee will be charged. In the North,
the Automobile Association (AA) and the Royal Automobile
Club (RAC) both offer the same services as the IAA.
Hitching
In the Republic hitching is commonplace; for locals it's almost as much
a normal part of getting around as using the bus and train networks, and
for the visitor the human contact makes it one of the best ways to get
to know the country. Knowing the shortcomings of public transport, many
drivers readily give lifts, and it's not unusual to see single women
with babies and the shopping or whole families waiting for a ride. It
has to be borne in mind, however, that local people experience no real
problems in getting lifts since they usually know just about everybody
on the road; visitors can have a less easy time of it.
The chief problem if you plan to hitch extensively is lack of traffic,
especially off the main roads, and if you are traveling around one of
the tourist-swamped areas of the west, you may find there's a reluctance
to pick up foreigners. That said, without transport of your own you are
probably going to have to hitch if you want to see the best of Ireland's
wild, remote places. Just be sure to leave yourself plenty of time.
Although it's probably safer than just about anywhere else in Europe, it
goes without saying that hitching is never entirely risk-free, and on
the whole it's best for women to avoid hitching alone.
Hitching a lift in the North is rather less straightforward and probably
easiest for pairs of women who are obviously tourists. Men traveling
alone or in pairs can still be viewed with suspicion and may find it
impossible to get a lift. Men and women traveling together are at least
in with a chance.
Cycling
If you are lucky enough to get decent weather, cycling is one of the
most enjoyable ways to see Ireland, ensuring you're continually in touch
with the landscape. Roads are generally empty, though very poor surfaces
may well slow you down.
Most airlines carry bicycles for free as long as you don't exceed your
weight allowance; but be sure to check the regulations in advance
(charters may be less obliging) and let them know when you book your
ticket that you plan to carry a bike. Always deflate the tires to avoid
explosions in the unpressurized hold.
If you don't want to
cycle long distances, it's easy and relatively cheap to rent a bike in
most towns in the Republic and at a limited number of places in the
North (most outlets are listed in the text); you can't take a rented
bike across the border. Raleigh, who operate a national rental scheme
and a choice of drop-off options, are the biggest distributors
(£8-10/?10.16-12.70 per day, £35-40/?44.45-50.80 per week plus around
£50/?63.50 deposit; collection and delivery service
£10-15/?12.70-19.05). You can call their main office at Raleigh House,
Kylemore Rd, Dublin 10 (phone 01/626 1333) to find out details of their
agents throughout Ireland. Local dealers (including some hostels) are
often less expensive. Wherever you rent your bike, it makes sense to
check the tires and brakes immediately and demand a pump and repair kit
before you set off. You should also consider the terrain: if you plan on
mountain biking, make sure your machine has enough gears to cope. Cycle
helmets are available for rent at some shops, but if you want to be
certain of wearing one, bring your own along.
In tourist spots at high season it's best to collect a bike early in the
day (or book it the day before) as supplies frequently run out. If you
arrive with your own bike, it's easy enough to carry it across long
distances by train, less so by bus . Local tourist offices will supply
information on organized cycling tours, or contact ICS .
Finally, a problem you may encounter - for some reason particularly in
the west - is that of farmers' dogs chasing and snarling at your wheels.
Should you be fortunate enough to be heading downhill at the time,
freewheeling silently past cottages and farm entrances is perhaps the
only humane way of minimizing the risk of savaged wheels and ankles.
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Ireland
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Ireland
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Ireland
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Best of Ireland
Irish Glossary
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Cavan and
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Ballyajamesduff
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West Cavan
County Monaghan
Carrickmacross
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Transportation,
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