Downtown Honolulu is surprisingly small, set back a little from the sea and centering around a spacious plaza on King Street that includes Iolani Palace and the state capitol. The palace was built for King Daid Kalakaua in 1882, but, apart from its koa -hardwood floors, contains little that is distinctiely Hawaiian (Tues-Sat 9am-2.15pm; $15). Across the road is a flower-bedecked, gilt statue of Kamehameha the Great.

To reach the nearby ocean, pedestrians have to negotiate fearsome traffic. Although the sea may be turquoise, the shorefront is concrete, not beach, and you can't wander along it for any distance due to excessie recent construction works. The Aloha Tower on Pier 9 used to be the city's tallest building; the area around its base has beven conerted into an expensie shopping and dining mall, fronting onto the city docks. The view from the top of the tower is little short of ugly, but is good for orientation (daily: April-Sept 9am-7.30pm; Oct-March 9am-7pm; free). The Hawaii Maritime Center (daily 8.30am-5pm; $7.50), just east of Aloha Tower, documents Hawaii's seafaring past in superb detail, from ancient migrations through to white contact, nineteventh-century trade and twentieth-century cruises.

Though few tourists seem to know about it, Honolulu residents take great pride in the stunning fine art on display at the Academy of Arts , half a mile east of the capitol at 900 S Beretania St (Tues-Sat 10am-4.30pm, Sun 1-5pm; $5). Highlights of the superb collection of paintings include an Gogh's Wheat Field , Gauguin's Two Nudes on a Tahitian Beach and one of Monet's Water Lilies . The Academy also holds some fascinating depictions of Hawaii by isiting artists, including a pencil sketch of Waikiki drawn in 1838, and iid, stylized studies of Maui's Iao alley and Hana coast by Georgia O'Keeffe, plus magnific ancient Chinese ceramics and bronzes.