Most of Honolulu's nightlife is concentrated in Waikiki, where fun-seeking tourists set the tone. On the whole, the available entertainment is on the bland side. Hawaii tends to be off the circuit for touring musicians, so if you enjoy live music you'll probably have to settle for little-known local performers (rising stars of contemporary Hawaiian music tend to prefer to keep their credibility by not playing in Waikiki too often). Look out also for special events at downtown's beautifully restored Hawaii Theater, 1130 Bethel St (phone808/528-0506). As for bars , Chinatown has the most raucous in town, but they're way too hair-raising for most tastes.

Chai's Island Bistro Aloha Tower Marketplace, 101 Ala Moana Blvd phone808/585-0011. Sumptuous and very expensive Thai restaurant, where the very finest Hawaiian musicians perform for diners nightly 7-8.30pm.

Duke's Canoe Club   Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach , 2335 Kalakaua Ave phone808/923-0711. Smooth Hawaiian sounds wash over this oceanfront Waikiki cocktail bar nightly from 4pm to 6pm and 10pm to midnight - including big-name "Concerts on the Beach" Fri-Sun 4-6pm. No cover charge.

Hula's Bar and Lei Stand   Waikiki Grand Hotel, 134 Kapahulu Ave phone808/923-0669. Waikiki's most popular gay venue occupies a suite of ocean-view rooms across from the Honolulu Zoo. As well as a state-of-the-art dance bar equipped with giant video screens, there's also a more casual lounge area. Daily 10am-2am.

La Mariana Sailing Club 50 Sand Island Access Rd phone808/848-2800. Waterfront restaurant with a wonderful 1950s feel, hidden away amid Honolulu's docks, and featuring live Hawaiian music at weekends. Daily 11am-11pm.

World Café Nimitz Business Center, 1130 N Nimitz Highway phone808/599-4450. Three-level club not far west of Chinatown that boasts Hawaii's largest dance floor. Hip hop, house and trance music predominate, and as one of the few clubs to admit under-21s it tends to be crammed with hyped-up youngsters. Daily 9pm until late.