Physically, County Clare is clearly defined, with Galway Bay and the Shannon estuary to the north and south, massive Lough Derg forming its eastern boundary, and the Atlantic to the west. Strangely, although plenty of people visit, the county is sometimes glossed over by travelers as simply land between the magnificent scenery of Kerry and Galway. It's true that it doesn't have the scenic splendor of either of these, and for many, the north of the county is too bleak to be attractive. Nonetheless, Clare has a subtle flavor that, once tasted, can be addictive.

Clare has earned itself two epithets: "the banner county" and "the singing county". It was called "the banner county" originally because of the part played by its men in the battle of Ramilles and more recently because of its courageous political history, particularly in the fight for Catholic emancipation. The second epithet reflects the strong musical traditions that are still very much alive in the county and constitute a major reason for coming here. Throughout the summer you will find sessions in pubs and in teach cheoils (pronounced chuck key 'ole ), the latter more sober entertainments, with tea and brown bread rather than stout for refreshment, and very fine musicians too. To find out what's going on, pick up a copy of the Shannon Region Traditional Irish Music Pubs leaflet from any tourist office or check out The Clare Champion , and, above all, ask around. Pub sessions very often start late in the evening, so don't give up on a bar just because it's half nine and still nothing is happening. A great session can seemingly spring from nowhere, and is liable to prove a wholly memorable experience. Don't underestimate the popularity and excitement of Clare's festivals either. If you have yet to experience "the craic", you are sure to find it here.

Both Clare's titles, "the banner county" and "the singing county" - the strong and the gentle - suggest something of the character of the place and are echoed in the contrasts of the landscape.The Burren heights in the north are startlingly stark and barren, while Ennis , the county's capital, is surrounded by low, rolling farmland. Fabulous cliff scenery stretches for miles round Clare's southern extreme at Loop Head and is spectacularly sheer at the Cliffs of Moher , further north. In between are small seaside towns and villages and wonderful sandy beaches, most dramatic at Lahinch - famous for surf. In the east, Lough Derg affords opportunities for watersports, and there are panoramic views from the slopes of the Slieve Bernagh and Slieve Aughtie mountains across to the mountains of Tipperary.

This varied countryside holds plenty of specialist interest. The Burren is a major attraction for geology and botany enthusiasts, and is also rich in ring forts, dolmens and cairns in the north. The legacy of later communities is found throughout the county, in the thickly sprinkled medieval monastic remains and the tower houses of the O'Brien and MacNamara clans

Shannon Airport

Arriving at Shannon International Airport - where Irish coffee was invented to placate stranded passengers - you're most likely to want to head for Limerick , barely fifteen miles away, where you can get bus and train connections to just about anywhere in the country. Ennis , a similar distance, is also easily accessible and a pleasant place to stop over if you plan to spend some time in County Clare or want to break your journey before you head north. Alternatively, Bunratty is worth considering as an overnight option. From the airport Bus Éireann buses (tel 061/313333) run around twenty services daily to Bunratty (20min), around fourteen daily to Ennis (45 min) and around twenty daily to Limerick (45min; £3.70/?4.70). A taxi (tel 061/471538) to Bunratty will cost about £9/?11.43, and to Ennis or Limerick about £17/?21.59. If you just want to find a bed for the night, you could stay at one of the B&Bs in Shannon town, all around a five-minute drive from the airport. Try Mrs Lohan , 35 Tullyglass Crescent (tel 061/364268), or Avalon , 11 Balleycaseymore Hill (tel 061/362032).

The airport tourist office (daily for all major flights; tel 061/471664) is extremely helpful and will book accommodation for you for the usual charge. There's a Bus Éireann and Irish Rail information point (April-Oct), and an airport information desk , open to serve all flights - if there's no one there, pick up the phone and dial 0. For Aer Lingus enquiries call 061/471666. The airport bank is open daily from 6am until 5.30pm, though it sometimes closes early if there are no flights.

Travel details

Trains

Ennis to: Dublin (1-2 daily; 3hr); Limerick (1-2 daily; 1hr).

Buses

Bunratty to: Shannon Airport (20 daily; 20min).

Doolin to: Galway (summer 2-4 daily; 1hr 30min).

Ennis to: Doolin (1-3 daily; 1hr 15min); Galway (12 daily; 1hr 30min); Kilkee (1-3 daily; 1hr 15min); Lahinch (1-3 daily; 45min); Limerick (8-19 daily; 45min); Lisdoonvarna (summer 1 daily; 1hr 15min); Shannon Airport (14 daily; 45min).

Galway to: Lisdoonvarna (summer 2-4 daily, mid-Sept-mid-May Mon-Sat 2-4 daily; 1hr 20min).

Limerick to: Doolin (1-3 daily; 1hr 40min-2hr 20min); Ennis (15 daily; 1hr); Ennistymon (1-3 daily; 1hr 15min); Killaloe (Mon-Sat 1-2 daily; 45min); Lisdoonvarna (1-5 daily; 1hr 55min); Mountshannon (Sat only 1 daily; 1hr 25min); Shannon Airport (20 daily; 45 min).

East Clare Way

The East Clare Way is a recently mapped long-distance walking route through a less touristed - but for some tastes no less scenic - part of the county. It passes through a green and rugged corner of Clare, taking in rivers, lakes, woodlands and boglands. It's a circular walk and the latter stages can be broken up with boat trips out onto Lough Derg from Mountshannon, or, in fine weather, swimming from the lakeshore (ask locally about currents). The circular route begins at Killaloe and goes through Broadford, O'Callaghan's Mills, Tulla, Feakle, Flagmount, Whitegate, Mountshannon, Ogonnelloe and back to Killaloe. The longest stage is Flagmount to Whitegate - some 21 miles.

Access : There is a limited bus service from Limerick to Killaloe and Scarriff (Mon-Sat). A bus service operates Saturdays only from Limerick to Mountshannon, Whitegate, Broadford and O'Callaghan's Mills; buses to Tulla from Limerick run on Wednesday.

Accommodation : B&Bs at Killaloe, Tulla and Ogonnelloe, and hotel accommodation in Feakle and Mountshannon; these are small communities, so it makes sense to book accommodation in advance.

Overall distance : 112 miles.

Highest point : Cragnamurragh, 1729ft.

Maps and guides : East Clare Map Guide , available from the tourist office in Ennis; OS map Nos. 58 & 65, 1:50,000 (1.25 inches to 1 mile).

Ireland