The Beara Peninsula, barren and remote, seems to have an energy all of its own, bounding in great ribs of rock thirty miles out into the ocean. In good weather it can be outrageously beautiful, especially in the extreme west, but the weather is notoriously changeable and when the mists roll in and the wind rises there are precious few places to shelter from it all. It is a fine place for tough cycling and energetic hiking, though you need to be prepared: careful planning of routes, particularly the descent, is vital.

Alternatively, you could try the Beara Way, a signposted, long-distance walk (125 miles) following old roads and tracks, stretching from Glengarriff west along the southern side of the peninsula to Dursey Island, along the north side to Kenmare and back down to Glengarriff (route guides available locally; OS 1:50,000 Discovery map 84). Everywhere along the peninsula you are accompanied by fine views of the mountains and the sea, and there are occasional sandy beaches on either side; take local advice before swimming, as currents can be treacherous.

In practical terms, there are just enough hostels and B&Bs to make lengthy exploration a viable proposition, but it's worth bearing in mind that a sparse population means there's little traffic of any sort - don't rely on being able to hitch back if you're in a hurry. If you're planning to camp , be aware that though there is no shortage of open land, a lot of it is very rocky. Private buses connect the Beara communities with Glengarriff, Bantry and Cork several days a week . Bus Éireann connects Castletownbere with Kenmare during the summer.

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