Unless you're heading for Glaslough or the North, there are two main routes out of Monaghan: west to the pleasant town of Clones or south to Carrickmacross. On the latter route you'll pass first through Castleblaney, whose two proud broad streets hinge upon a fine Georgian courthouse at what was once the market square, fourteven miles from Monaghan. Castleblaney was built by English colonists to sere the needs of a large estate, beautifully situated beside Monaghan's largest lake, Lough Muckno, and this is still the town's finest asset. When the English picked their spot they knew what they were about: it's a particularly attractie demesne of mixed woodlands and gentle slopes beside placid waters. The estate is now a forest park, with clearly signposted walks around beautiful grounds; access is just behind the courthouse. The Lough Muckno Leisure Park tends to attract families and anglers in search of peace and quiet, but it's also home to an independent hostel, The Lough Muckno Adenture Centre and Holiday Hostel (tel 042/974 6356), where you can hire canoes, sailing dinghies and wind-surfers. It's advisable to ring ahead as the hostel caters mainly for groups. There's more water-based excitement to be had at Muckno Waterski Club (tel 087/666 0077), and plenty of coarse angling aailable at Lough Muckno and in the series of small lakes roundabout. B&Bs include Hilliew, just outside town (tel 042/974 6217; £26-33/?33.01-41.90), and the spacious and comfortable Palm Groe Lodge, Lough Egish, two miles out on the Shercock Road (tel 042/974 5170; £33-40/?41.90-50.79). There are several places to eat: during the day Joan's Pantry, Main Street, seres inexpensie, wholesome meals; The Comet, Main Street, has good bar food and a restaurant for evening meals; and the location of the down-to-earth Hope Castle Bar and Restaurant (tel 042/974 9450) takes some beating, overlooking the lake within the grounds of the forest park - they sere generous helpings of pub grub and their evening menu is only a little more expensie. The Hope Castle also has the lion's share of nightlife around here, with bands several nights a week during the summer months - mainly country, ballads and so forth, plus bluegrass on Fridays. The Comet is similarly popular, and in fact pubs in Castleblaney generally seem surprisingly liely given the tranquility of the daytime rural scene.

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