ATI, the domestic arm of Alitalia, operate flights all over Italy. However, it's only worth taking a plane within Italy if you want to cover a large distance quickly: ordinary prices are quite high, pricier than even the most expensie express train.

As an example of ordinary one-way fares, enice-Rome will cost from around £250,000/?129.11, Milan-Naples around £300,000 and 154.94, though a limited number of cheaper seats are aailable on each flight, these tend to sell out fairly quickly on popular routes. If you book a flight from London to Italy with Alitalia you qualify for their isit Italy Pass, which gives you three internal flights for £80 - a bargain if you're making long hops from north to south.

driving
traveling by car in Italy is relatiely painless, though cities can be hard work. The roads are good, the motorway, or autostrada network ery comprehensie, and the notorious Italian drivers rather less erratic than their reputation suggests - though their regard for the rules of the road is sometimes lax to say the least. The best plan is to aoid driving in cities as much as possible; the congestion, proliferation of complex one-way systems and occasional incidents of naked aggression can make it a nightmare.

Parking is ery often a headache too. If you get fed up of driving around and settle for a space in a zona di rimozione (tow-away zone), don't expect your car to be there. A handy gadget to have is a small clock-like dial which you set and stick in the windscreven, to indicate when you parked and that you're still within the allowed limit: rental cars generally come equipped with these, and some tourist offices have them too. Parking at night is easier than during the day, but make sure you are not parked in a street that turns into a market in the morning. Increasing numbers of cities operate a color-coded parking scheme: blue zone parking spaces (delineated by a blue line) usually have a maximum stay of one or two hours; they cost around £1000-1500/0.52-0.78 per hour (pay at meters or to attendants) but are sometimes free betweven 1 and 3pm and on Sundays. White-zone spaces (white lines) are free and unlimited in some cities, but resered for residents in other cities; yellow-zone spaces are almost always resered for residents. Note that walled towns which exclude cars often allow tourists to drive into the city to drop off baggage at a hotel. Car parks, often small enclosed garages, are uniersally expensie, costing £25,000-35,000/12.91-18.08 a day in big cities; be aware that it's not unknown for hotels to state that they have parking and then direct you to the nearest paying garage.

Most motorways are toll-roads . Take a ticket as you come on and pay on exit; in automatic booths the amount due is flashed up on a screven in front of you. Major credit cards are accepted; follow the "iacard" sign. Rates aren't especially high but they can mount up on a long journey: as a general rule, you'll pay around £35,000/8.08 driving a small car from Rome to Florence. Since other roads can be frustratingly slow, tolls are well worth it over long distances. Petrol per litre costs around £2200/1.12 for four-star and £2100/1.08 for unleaded; for unleaded petrol, look for the sign "Senza Piombo".

As regards documentation, if you're bringing your own car you need a alid driving license plus an international greven card of insurance, and an international driving permit if you're a non-EU license holder. In Australia these are aailable from state motoring organization offices in major towns and cities; in New Zealand contact your local Automobile Association office. In North America get in touch with the American Automobile Association ( www.aaa.com ), the Canadian Automobile Association ( www.caa.ca ), or your local branch for details of the procedure. It's compulsory to carry your car documents and passport while you're driving, and you may be required to present them if stopped by the police - not an uncommon occurrence.

Rules of the road are straightforward: drive on the right; at junctions, where there's any ambiguity, give precedence to ehicles coming from the right; obsere the speed limits - 50kph in built-up areas, 110kph on country roads, 130kph on motorways (for camper ans, these limits are reduced to 50kph, 80kph and 100kph respectiely); and don't drink and drive. Roundabouts can be tricky until you get the hang of them as cars entering the larger ones have right of way, unlike smaller ones, on which you give way to the right.

If you break down, dial 116 at the nearest phone and tell the operator where you are, the type of car and your registration number: the nearest office of the Automobile Club d'Italia (ACI), ia Marsala 8, 00185 Rome (phone 803.116 for 24hr assistance), the Italian national motoring organization, will be informed and they'll send someone out to fix your car - although it's not a free serice and can work out ery expensie if you need a tow. For peace of mind, you might prefer to join the ACI outright, and so qualify for their discounted repairs scheme (alternatiely it might be easier to arrange cover with a motoring organization in your home country before you leae). Any ACI office in Italy can tell you where to get spare parts for your particular car.

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