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Work And Study
All EU citizens are eligible to work in Italy. The two main
bureaucratic requirements are a libretto di lavoro and permesso di
soggiorno, respectively a work and residence permit, both available
from the Questura (police station). For the first you must have a
letter from your employers saying they are prepared to take you on;
for the second (which is also necessary if you want to buy a car or
have a bank account in Italy), you'll need a passport, passport
photos, and a lot of patience. Work permits are pretty impossible
for non-EU citizens to obtain: you must have the firm promise of a
job that no Italian could do before you can even apply to the
Italian embassy in your home country. A useful publication to have
is Live and Work in Italy by Victoria Pybus, published by Vacation
Work in the UK, costing £10.99, a comprehensive guide and full of
practical information.
Work
The obvious choice is to teach English , for which the demand has
expanded enormously in recent years. You can do this in two ways:
freelance private lessons, or through a language school. Private
lessons generally pay best, and you can charge around
£30,000-42,000/?15.49-21.70 an hour, though there's scope for
bargaining. Advertise in bars, shop windows and local newspapers,
and, most importantly, get the news around by word-of-mouth that
you're looking for work, emphasizing your excellent background,
qualifications and experience. An advantage of private teaching is
that you can start at any time of the year (summer especially is a
good time for schoolchildren and students who have to retake exams
in September); the main disadvantage is that it can take weeks to
get off the ground, and you need enough money to support yourself
until then. You'll find the best opportunities for this kind of work
in the tourist resorts and the bigger towns and cities.
Teaching in schools , you start
earning immediately. It usually involves more hours per week, often
in the evening, at a lower rate per hour, though the amount you get
depends on the school. Don't accept anything less than £15,000/?7.75
an hour (approximately £5/US$8), while the bigger schools should pay
much more than this. For the less reputable places, you can get away
without any qualifications and a bit of bluff, but you'll need to
show a TEFL (Teaching of English as a Foreign Language) certificate
for the more professional establishments.
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For the main language
schools, it's best to apply in writing before you leave (look for
the ads in the Guardian and Times Education Supplement , and contact
the Italian Cultural Institute), preferably before the summer,
though you can also find openings in September. If you're looking on
the spot, sift through the phone books and do the rounds on foot,
asking to speak to the direttore or his/her secretary; don't bother
to try in August when everything is closed.
The best teaching jobs of all are
with a university as a lettore , a job requiring fewer
hours than the language schools and generally providing a fuller
pay-packet. Universities require English-language teachers in most
faculties, and you can write to the individual faculties (addressed
to Ufficio di Personale). Strictly speaking you could get by without
any knowledge of Italian while teaching, though it obviously helps a
lot.
If teaching's not up your street,
there's the possibility of courier work in the summer, especially
around the seaside resorts. These are good places for finding
bar/restaurant work , too - not the most lucrative of jobs, though
you should make enough to keep you over the summer. You'll have to
ask around for both types of work, and some knowledge of Italian is
essential. Au pairing is another option: sift through the ads in The
Lady to find openings.
Studying
One way of spending time in Italy is to combine a holiday with
learning the language, or taking one of many summer courses on
myriad aspects of Italian art and culture. There are a great many
places where you can do this, usually offering language courses of
varying levels of intensity for between one and three months.
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