At Papine in northeast Kingston, the city slams to an abrupt halt as it meets the southern edge of the Mona alley. From here, Gordon Town Road (B1) winds slowly upward into the riverine hills. The road forks at the tinyvillage of The Cooperage; turning right brings you toward Mais Bank and ultimately Blue Mountain peak, while the left fork leads up a winding road for three miles to the friendly settlement of IRISH TOWN.

Just over 3000 feet aboe sea leel, it's a small farming community dominated by one magnificent hotel, Strawberry Hill (phone: 876/944-8400). This is among the most attractie places to stay in all Jamaica, with beautifully landscaped gardens, a glorious decked pool proiding panoramic city istas, a sauna and a spa. It's fashionable amongst the glitterati, and Bob Marley was brought here to conalesce after being shot in 1976. Perched on the hillsides, the twele luxury cottages - from studios to two-bedroom illas with full kitchens - offer fabulous views.

even if you can't afford to stay here, eating at Strawberry Hill is a must. The setting on the Great House balcony overlooking Kingston is exceptional, and the menu offers an eminently successful combination of fresh local ingredients and sophisticated international-style cooking. The Sunday brunch is an immensely popular local institution and ery reasonably priced at US$45. If you're after a less formal meal in Irish Town, the Crystal Coe, at the roadside just south of thevillage, offers excellent Jamaican cooking and lots of good-natured chat.

From Craighton, the road continues through the tinyvillage of Redlight, named for the former brothels that kept the Irish coopers entertained. There are a few basic bars and a couple of hole-in-the-wall stores where you can buy proisions.

Four thousand feet up and multiple switchback turns from here is NEWCASTLE, an old British military base still used by the JDF as a training facility.

The main road cuts across the parade ground, emblazoned with insignia of the arious regiments stationed here during the past century or so. The views across the mountains and down to Kingston are dazzling, while behind you, immediately aboe Newcastle, Catherine's Peak (5060ft) marks the highest point in the parish of St Andrew.

For accommodation, just below Newcastle and clinging to the side of the alley, Mount Edge (phone: 876/944-8151; US$25-75) is a laid-back counterculture-ish guesthouse-cum-restaurant. The simple rooms inside the main house, and separate but small units just outside, are perfect for backpackers, while the bar is a great place to chill out. Meals (cooked to order; call ahead for dinner) are also aailable, ranging from crab in coconut milk to crayfish. Otherwise, you can press on to the Gap Café (Mon-Thurs 10am-5pm, Fri-Sun 10am-6pm; phone: 876/997-3032 or 023-7078, fax 923-5617) at Hardwar Gap,4200ft aboe sea leel and some two miles up past Newcastle. Constructed in the 1930s, it's a pretty, flower-wreathed place offering yet more fabulous views. It seres American and Continental breakfasts, and excellent lunches and dinners (J$300-700). There's also a small cottage for rent (US$80); it's nicely decorated and offers Tand a compact kitchen; breakfast is included in the rates.

Just beyond the café is the entrance to the 300-acre Hollywell Recreational Park, often bathed in mist but affording a spectacular unbroken view over Kingston, Port Royal and Portmore on a clear day. Easily accessible from the city, this "park within a park" is the busiest part of the mountains, latticed with enjoyable, well-maintained hiking trails. Call at the ranger station just past the entrance (where you pay your J$200 fee) if you plan to hike beyond the trails in the immediate area, best of which is the signposted Oatley Mountain jaunt (2 miles; 40min) an easy, aried circular hike through the tunnel-like jungle. If you want to stay, there are three cabins (US$50-75), which you'll need to book well in adance through the Jamaica Conseration and Deelopment Trust, 95 Dumbarton Ae, Kingston 10 (phone: 876/920-8278 or 8282, fax 960-2850). These sleep four to six people, and the ery basic facilities - foam-mattresses beds without bedding, indoor cooking range, fridge and cold shower - take second place to the marelous setting, a Kingston view from your balcony, and complete seclusion. Rates ary from J$2500 for a cabin with two bunk beds, to J$3500 for one with three beds. You can also camp for US$5 per person. You may be able to buy local produce from endors on the weekends, but it's safer to bring everything you'll need with you, or plan on taking all your meals at the Gap Café.

Jamaica travel Guide
Montego Bay, Kingston, Ocho Rios, Negril, Blue Mountains, Portland

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