At Papine in northeast Kingston, the city slams to an abrupt halt as it meets the southern edge of the Mona valley. From here, Gordon Town Road (B1) winds slowly upward into the riverine hills. The road forks at the tiny village of The Cooperage; turning right brings you toward Mavis Bank and ultimately Blue Mountain peak, while the left fork leads up a winding road for three miles to the friendly settlement of IRISH TOWN.

Just over 3000 feet above sea level, it's a small farming community dominated by one magnificent hotel, Strawberry Hill (phone: 876/944-8400). This is among the most attractive places to stay in all Jamaica, with beautifully landscaped gardens, a glorious decked pool providing panoramic city vistas, a sauna and a spa. It's fashionable amongst the glitterati, and Bob Marley was brought here to convalesce after being shot in 1976. Perched on the hillsides, the twelve luxury cottages - from studios to two-bedroom villas with full kitchens - offer fabulous views.

Even if you can't afford to stay here, eating at Strawberry Hill is a must. The setting on the Great House balcony overlooking Kingston is exceptional, and the menu offers an eminently successful combination of fresh local ingredients and sophisticated international-style cooking. The Sunday brunch is an immensely popular local institution and very reasonably priced at US$45. If you're after a less formal meal in Irish Town, the Crystal Cove, at the roadside just south of the village, offers excellent Jamaican cooking and lots of good-natured chat.

From Craighton, the road continues through the tiny village of Redlight, named for the former brothels that kept the Irish coopers entertained. There are a few basic bars and a couple of hole-in-the-wall stores where you can buy provisions.

Four thousand feet up and multiple switchback turns from here is NEWCASTLE, an old British military base still used by the JDF as a training facility.

The main road cuts across the parade ground, emblazoned with insignia of the various regiments stationed here during the past century or so. The views across the mountains and down to Kingston are dazzling, while behind you, immediately above Newcastle, Catherine's Peak (5060ft) marks the highest point in the parish of St Andrew.

For accommodation, just below Newcastle and clinging to the side of the valley, Mount Edge (phone: 876/944-8151; US$25-75) is a laid-back counterculture-ish guesthouse-cum-restaurant. The simple rooms inside the main house, and separate but small units just outside, are perfect for backpackers, while the bar is a great place to chill out. Meals (cooked to order; call ahead for dinner) are also available, ranging from crab in coconut milk to crayfish. Otherwise, you can press on to the Gap Café (Mon-Thurs 10am-5pm, Fri-Sun 10am-6pm; phone: 876/997-3032 or 023-7078, fax 923-5617) at Hardwar Gap,4200ft above sea level and some two miles up past Newcastle. Constructed in the 1930s, it's a pretty, flower-wreathed place offering yet more fabulous views. It serves American and Continental breakfasts, and excellent lunches and dinners (J$300-700). There's also a small cottage for rent (US$80); it's nicely decorated and offers TV and a compact kitchen; breakfast is included in the rates.

Just beyond the café is the entrance to the 300-acre Hollywell Recreational Park, often bathed in mist but affording a spectacular unbroken view over Kingston, Port Royal and Portmore on a clear day. Easily accessible from the city, this "park within a park" is the busiest part of the mountains, latticed with enjoyable, well-maintained hiking trails. Call at the ranger station just past the entrance (where you pay your J$200 fee) if you plan to hike beyond the trails in the immediate area, best of which is the signposted Oatley Mountain jaunt (2 miles; 40min) an easy, varied circular hike through the tunnel-like jungle. If you want to stay, there are three cabins (US$50-75), which you'll need to book well in advance through the Jamaica Conservation and Development Trust, 95 Dumbarton Ave, Kingston 10 (phone: 876/920-8278 or 8282, fax 960-2850). These sleep four to six people, and the very basic facilities - foam-mattresses beds without bedding, indoor cooking range, fridge and cold shower - take second place to the marvelous setting, a Kingston view from your balcony, and complete seclusion. Rates vary from J$2500 for a cabin with two bunk beds, to J$3500 for one with three beds. You can also camp for US$5 per person. You may be able to buy local produce from vendors on the weekends, but it's safer to bring everything you'll need with you, or plan on taking all your meals at the Gap Café.

Jamaica Travel Guide
Montego Bay, Kingston, Ocho Rios, Negril, Blue Mountains, Portland

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Caribbean Travel Guide