Just past Port Antonio's eastern outskirts, Allan Avenue swings past the Folly Peninsula, site of the sorry ruin of what was, briefly, one of the grandest houses in Jamaica. Built by an American banker in 1902, it stood for less than thirty years - a victim of shoddy construction. The remaining Grecian-style pillars retain an evocative look, and the ruins have appeared in music videos and films. Around the corner is the fantasy Trident Castle. Built by European baroness Zigi Fami, owner of the Jamaica Palace hotel, the castle is now the property of the Trident Hotel and is occasionally rented out for private functions.

Three miles east of Port Antonio is Frenchman's Cove. The formerly sumptuous hotel villas here have deteriorated, but the grounds are still beautifully maintained, and the beach (daily 9am-5pm; J$100), though small, is one of the most splendid in Jamaica. The curve of fine sand is enclosed by verdant hills, and a fresh-water river, its bottom lined by white beach sand, runs straight into the sea.   Food and drink are usually available, and you can rent loungers or take a boat tour to nearby beaches or the Blue Lagoon (US$10 per person). The easily missed entrance is opposite the turn-off to the eighteen-hole San San Golf Course (phone: 876/993-7645).

The next option for a swim is privately owned San San beach, open to tourists for around US$5, but you're far better off pressing on to the Blue Lagoon. Enclosed by greenery-smothered cliffs, the remarkably turquoise lagoon is a result of several underwater streams running down from the mountains. The whole effect is very picture-postcard, and it's a peaceful place to swim. You can do so for free from a pebbly "beach", but if you're going to make a day of it, you're best off paying the J$120 entry fee to use the facilities at the purpose-built Blue Lagoon complex (daily 10am-10pm; phone: 876/993-7791).

An up market restaurant area hangs over the water (your entry fee is refunded if you eat), and snorkel gear is available to rent at US$9 for four hours.

There's more marvelous swimming a couple of miles east at Dragon Bay, where a protected sandy beach adjoins the Dragon Bay Hotel, half a mile from the main road and open to the public for a daily fee of J$150. It has a lovely protected cove to swim and snorkel in - the hotel also offers scuba diving (phone: 876/993-8988) - and access to the thatched bar where Tom Cruise juggled his bottles in Cocktail.

Supremely laid-back Winnifred Beach ,two miles further east, is one of the biggest and most appealing on this side of the island, its wide, golden crescent of sand justly popular with Jamaicans.

The small reef is perfect for snorkeling (bring your own gear) and protects the bay from the waves. At the eastern end, a small mineral spring offers a fresh-water rinse (the changing facilities are best avoided). Winnifred  has good, unobtrusive food and drink facilities; the best is Painter and Cynthia's, tucked into the western corner and serving up delicious platefuls of ackee and saltfish, chicken and fresh fish.

The coast road swings away from the sea parallel to Winnifred; to get to the beach, take the road opposite the Jamaica Crest Resort and follow it for half a mile or so. You can park and walk down to the sand where the tarmac ends; if it hasn't been raining recently, you should be able to drive right down onto the beach.

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