Portland's interior - the Rio Grande valley - is a fantastically lush and partially impenetrable hinterland of tropical rainforest, rivers and waterfalls.

The Rio Grande - one of Jamaica's major rivers - pours down from the John Crow Mountains through the deep and beautiful valley of real virgin forest, with none of the soil erosion and deforestation found on the south side of the Blue Mountains.  Raft, bamboo raft and hiking spots.

The paucity of good roads means it's not a heavily visited area, but it does offer some marvelous hiking, as well as the chance to slide down the waters of the Rio Grande aboard a bamboo raft.

Once just an easy way to transport bananas to the loading wharf in Port Antonio, rafting has been Portland's most popular attraction ever since Errol Flynn began organizing rafting races for his friends in the 1950s.

From the put-in point at Berridale, six miles southwest of Port Antonio, rafts meander down the river on a three-hour journey through some outstanding scenery before terminating at the Rafters' Rest complex at St Margaret's Bay.

The raft captain stands at the front and poles the craft downstream, stopping periodically to let you swim or buy snacks from vendors positioned along the route. Tickets are sold at the put-in spot by Rio Grande Attractions Ltd (phone: 876/995-778; US$45 per raft), or by hotels and tour groups in Port Antonio. Because it's a one-way trip, transport can be a problem. If you're driving, you can leave your car at Berridale and have an insured driver take it down to Rafters' Rest for around US$5. A taxi to Berridale and back to Port Antonio from Rafters' Rest costs around US$10 each way.

If you fancy seeing the valley on foot, call into the Valley Hikes office, upstairs at shop 13, Village of St George (phone: 876/993-3881). An eco-friendly, non-profit-making group employing valley citizens as guides, Valley offer a comprehensive package of walks and excursions, from a gentle two-hour stroll to McKenzie Falls to a strenuous climb up to the White River.

Excursions in the lower Rio Grande valley cost US$20-35, but there are plenty of more adventurous (and costlier) options such as an overnight trip to Nanny Town (US$150), as well as horse riding and rafting.

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