Most people experience west London en route to or from Heathrow airport, either from the confines of the train or tube (which runs over ground most of the way) or the motorway. The city and its satellites seem to continue unabated, with only fleeting glimpses of the countryside. However, in the five-mile stretch from Chiswick to Osterley there are several former country retreats, now surrounded by suburbia, which are definitely worth digging out.

The Palladian villa of Chiswick House is perhaps the best known of these attractions, though it draws nothing like as many visitors as Syon House , most of whom come for the gardening centre rather than for the house itself, a showcase for the talents of Robert Adam, who also worked at Osterley House , another Elizabethan conversion, now owned by the National Trust.

Running through much of the section is the River Thames , once known as the "Great Highway of London" and still the most pleasant way to travel in these parts during the summer. Boats plough up the Thames all the way from central London, via the botanical gardens of Kew and the picturesque riverside at Richmond , as far as Hampton Court , home of the country's largest and most impressive royal residence (and the famous maze). To reach the heavily visited royal outpost of Windsor Castle, however, you really need to take the train.

River Transport

Westminster Passenger Services (phone020/7930 4721; www.wpsa.co.uk) run two to three boats between Westminster and Hampton Court daily from April to September, calling at Kew and Richmond; the full trip takes 3-4hr one-way, and costs £10 single, £14 return.

Explore Chiwick to Windsor
vChiwick to Windsor
vChiwick House
vHam House
vHampton Court Palace
vHogarth House
vKew Bridge Steam Museum
vKew Gardens 
vMusical Museum
vOsterley House
vRichmond
vSyon House
vWindsor

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