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Hampton Court Palace,
a sprawling red-brick ensemble on the banks of the Thames, thirteen
miles southwest of London, is the finest of England's royal abodes.
Built in 1516 by the upwardly mobile Cardinal Wolsey , Henry
VIII's Lord Chancellor, it was purloined by Henry himself after Wolsey
fell from favour. Charles II laid out the gardens, inspired by what he
had seen at Versailles, while William and Mary had large sections of the
palace remodelled by Wren.
The Royal Apartments are divided into six thematic walking tours.
There's not a lot of information in any of the rooms, but guided tours,
each lasting 45 minutes, are available at no extra charge for Henry
VIII's and the King's apartments; all are led by period-costumed
historians, who do a fine job of bringing the place to life. If your
energy is lacking - and Hampton Court is huge - the most rewarding
sections are: Henry VIII's State Apartments , which feature the
glorious double hammerbeamed Great Hall; the King's Apartments (remodelled
by William III); and the vast Tudor Kitchens . The last two are
also served by audio tours.
Tickets to the Royal Apartments cover entry to the rest of the sites in
the grounds. Those who don't wish to visit the apartments are free to
wander around the gardens, but will have to pay extra to visit the
curious Royal Tennis Courts (50p), the palace's famously tricky
hedge Maze (£2.30), and the South Gardens (£2.10), where
you can view Andrea Mantegna's colourful, heroic canvases, The
Triumphs of Caesar, housed in the Lower Orangery, and the celebrated
Great Vine , whose grapes are sold at the palace each year in
September.
Mid-March to mid-Oct Mon 10.15am-6pm, Tues-Sun 9.30am-6pm; mid-Oct to
mid-March closes 4.30pm; £10.50; www.hrp.org.uk. Hampton Court train
station, from Waterloo.
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