Cuban food is what Miami does best, and it's not limited to the traditional haunts in Little Havana - the hearty, comfort food, notably rice and beans, fried plantains and shredded pork sandwiches, is found in every neighborhood. It is, however, complemented by sushi bars, American home-style diners, Haitian restaurants, Italian eateries and Indian venues, among a handful of other ethnic cuisines. Coral Gables stakes its claim in upmarket cafés and ethnic Italian and Greek restaurants, while Coconut Grove features American, Spanish, New Floridian - a mix of Caribbean spiciness and fruity Florida sauces - and even British.

Seafood is equally abundant; succulent grouper, yellowfin tuna and wahoo, a local delicacy, are among five hundred species of fish thriving offshore. Stone crab claws , served from October to May, are another regional specialty. A tropical climate provides Florida with a juicy assortment of standard orange and grapefruit citrus, as well as the exotic flavors of the lychee, mango, papaya, tamarind and star fruits - many of which are used in sauces and batidos (light milkshakes). You'll also want to drink Cuban coffee: choose between café cubano , strong, sweet and frothy, drunk like a shot with a glass of water; café con leche , with steamed milk, and particularly good at breakfast with pan cubano (thin, buttered toast); or café cortadito , a smaller version of the con leche .

Ayestaran 706 SW 27th Ave, Little Havana phone 305/649-4982. The sprawling Cuban restaurant offers hearty daily specials and superb café con leche that you can mix to your liking.

Bambu 1661 Meridian Ave, Miami Beach phone 305/531-4800. Celebrity eateries are big business in Miami, and this one is co-owned by the actress Cameron Diaz. But the draw at this place is the food - great Asian fusion sushi and the occasional celebrity sighting make it a good place to splash out.

Big Fish Mayaimi 55 SW Miami Ave, downtown phone 305/373-1770. A lively spot on the Miami River, it has great fish dishes and a splendid view. The menu includes home-cooked fish sandwiches and fresh seafood chowder.

Big Pink 157 Collins Ave, South Beach phone 305/531-0888. Big portions of comfort food - mashed potatoes, ribs, macaroni and cheese, and classic "TV dinners" at 1950s prices - are served up.

David's Café 1058 Collins Ave, South Beach phone 305/534-8736. Cuban restaurant with two locations on the beach (the other is at 16th & Meridian Ave), where suited Cuban businessmen doing deals sit alongside cholo teenagers. The food is authentic and there's eat-in and take-out at both restaurants.

Fishbone Grille 650 S Miami Ave, downtown phone 305/530-1915. The busy, friendly restaurant serves excellent seafood with creative starters like shrimp potato fritters and smoked fish mousse.

Gino's 731 Washington Ave, Miami Beach phone 305/673-2837. Open 24 hours a day, it serves true New York-style pizza to shift workers and clubbers alike. It's famous, too, for a dedication to staying open, even in the face of hurricanes.

Greenstreet Café 3468 Main Highway, Coconut Grove phone 305/444-0244. Its terrific breakfasts make this café a real scene at weekends. It has a large number of outdoor tables for watching the world go by.