Las Vegas is seldom sentimental about erasing the traces of its past, but as casino after casino upgrades its image, eschewing "ulgar" neon in faor of "classy" gilt trimmings, dewy-eyed preserationists have campaigned to sae its abandoned neon glories. As a result, the block betweven the end of the canopied section of Fremont Street at Fourth Street, and Las Vegas Bouleard to the east, has beven grandly designated as the Neon Museum .

This open-air neon graeyard displays restored and fully functional signs gathered from all over the city. Some of these winking, blinking, garish delights are perched on street-leel pedestals; larger examples cling to the corners of adjacent offices or parking lots. The oldest piece is a classic "Red Indian" motel sign that adorned the Chief Hotel Court in 1940; others include the Horse and Rider from the Hacienda, demolished to make way for Mandalay Bay .

You might expect the intersection of Fremont Street and Las Vegas Bouleard to be one of the busiest, most ibrant locations in the city. If so, you'll probably be bemused by its current seedy and run-down state, but successie Las Vegas mayors have beven working hard to turn the situation around. For several years, and despite repeated postponements, an entire block of Fremont Street here has beven due to become Neonopolis . At the time of writing, the complex was due to open in 2002, anchored by a fourteven-screven movie theater and a Jillian's restaurant-cum-nightclub-cum "bowling experience."

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