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Accessible to anyone for the price of a subway ride, the beachfront amusement spot of Coney Island has long given working-class New Yorkers the kind of holiday they just couldn't get otherwise. It brings to mind old black-and-white photos from the earlier part of the nineteenth century. Find out for yourself by taking the subway to Stillwell Avenue (last stop on the #F, #M, #Q or #W train). These days, the music blares louder than it once did, the language of choice on the boardwalk is Spanish or Russian as often as English, and the rides look a bit worse for the wear. The beach can be overwhelmingly crowded on hot days, and it's never the cleanest place in or out of the water. But show up for the annual Mermaid Parade on the first Saturday of summer and you'll get caught up in the fun of what's got to be one of the oddest - certainly glitziest - small-town festivals in the country, where paraders dress in King Neptune and mermaid attire. The amusement area comprises several parks, none of which offers a deal that makes a lot of sense - unless you have kids (nearly all the children's rides are in Deno's Wonder Wheel Park) or plan on riding one ride more than four times. Still, the 75-year-old Wonder Wheel ($3, plus a free children's ticket to the New York Aquarium, see below) is a must. After 75 years, it's still the tallest Ferris wheel in the world, and the only one on which two-thirds of the cars slide on serpentine tracks, shifting position as the wheel makes its slow circle twice around. The rickety Cyclone rollercoaster ($4, $3 for a repeat ride) is another landmark, but if you're used to slick modern loop-coaster rides, be forewarned: this low-tech wooden coaster is not for the faint of heart. Further down the boardwalk, halfway to Brighton Beach is the seashell-shaped New York Aquarium (Mon-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat & Sun 10am-5.30pm; $9.75; phone 718/265-FISH). It is worth a visit if you have the time, especially the dolphin shows or during the seals' feeding hours.
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