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The lively waters off the Praia do Arpoador are
popular with families and the elderly as the ocean here is
slightly calmer than at Ipanema. From here, as far as the
unkempt and balding greenery of the Jardim de Allah, a
couple of kilometres away, you're in Ipanema ;
thereafter lies Leblon . There are few apartment
buildings in either bairro that don't have their own
pistol-toting guard, eyes alert to anyone who looks out of
place in this rich person's hangout.
Much calmer than Copacabana, the beaches here are
stupendous, though there's not much in the way of bars and
restaurants near the beach: in fact, the only bar/restaurant
on the front is Caneco, at the far end of Leblon, a
good spot to aim for anyway.
As with Copacabana, Ipanema's beach is unofficially divided
according to the supposed interest of the beach users. Thus
the stretch of sand east from Rua Farme de Amoedo to Rua
Teixeira de Melo is where gay men are concentrated, while
posto 9 is where artists and intellectuals ponder life.
On Sunday, the seafront roads - Avenida Vieira Souto in
Ipanema, Avenida Delfim Moreira in Leblon - are closed to
traffic, and given over to strollers, skateboarders and
rollerbladers.
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Since the 1960s, Ipanema has developed a reputation as a
fashion centre second to none in Latin America. It's hard to
say whether in fact that's true, but certainly the place is
packed with bijou little boutiques, flogging the very best
names in fine threads.
If you do go shopping here, go on Friday and take in the
large food and flower market on the Praça de Paz.
Most visitors are more likely to be able to afford something
at the so-called Feira Hippie , held between 9am and
6pm on Sunday in Praça General Osório, but the variety and
quality of the goods - leather, jewellery, cushion covers,
hammocks and crocheted tablecloths - is very poor, and
you're more likely to find something worth buying at the
Babilônia Feira Hype in Gávea.
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