You shouldn't be stuck: there's no end of things to do come nightfall in the city whose name is synonymous with Carnaval, samba and jazz.

The best way to find out what's on and where in Rio is to consult Caderno B, a separate section of the Jornal do Brasil, which lists cinema, arts events and concerts; O Globo, too, details sporting and cultural events in the city.

Veja, Brazil's answer to Newsweek, includes an excellent weekly Rio supplement with news of concerts, exhibitions and other events; the magazine reaches the news stands on Sunday. Alternatively, the Web site www.guiarj.com.br has up-to-date listings of entertainment possibilities.

Discos an live music
Although Rio's discos and piano bars attempt sophistication, the product is generally bland and unpalatable. Discos, particularly, too often pump out a steady stream of British and American hits, interspersed with examples from Brazil's own dreadful pop industry.

Most of the big discos are private clubs, but if you're staying in one of the five-star hotels, and promise to spend a minimum of $15 per person, you can usually arrange temporary membership. Soft options for the wealthy and unadventurous are Hippopotamus, Rua Barão de Torre 354, Ipanema, and Studio C, Rua Xavier da Silveira 7, under the Hotel Rio Othon Palace in Copacabana. Halfway along Avenida Atlântica, Help is a massive disco which gets mobbed at weekends; entrance is about $8.

Other boates (disco clubs) are: Caligula, Rua Prudente de Morais 129, Ipanema, which costs $8 entrance and attracts some famous types; and the more tranquil Biblos, Av. Epitácio Pessoa 1484, Lagoa, with good popular home-grown music and jazz on Tuesdays. Peoples, Av. Bartolomeu Mitre 370, Leblon (tel 021/512-8824), is one of the trendiest spots in Rio, though with a $15 cover charge it's not a cheap night out.

For live rock music , give Crespúsculo de Cubatão, Rua Barata Ribeiro 543, a whirl; entrance is about $5. Let It Be, Rua Siqueira Campos 206, also has live rock combined with taped music that, not surprisingly, favours old stuff from the Fab Four. If you want to start your night early, live samba , chorinho and bossa nova is performed from 6pm at the Bar Coisa da Antiga, Rua do Lavradio 100 and the Café das Artes, Rua do Lavradio 22, both in Lapa.

Samba
Samba shows are inevitably tourist affairs, where members of Rio's more successful samba schools perform glitzy music and dance routines. Still, some are worth catching. Every Monday night at 10pm, the Beija Flor (tel 021/791-1353) school performs at the Morro da Urca, halfway up Pão d'Açúcar; $30 entrance includes dinner from 8pm, a well-executed show and spectacular views, though it's a tad snooty. On Thursday and Friday live music shows start at 10pm, and you can eat and drink till 2am. For a less touristy experience of a samba school, you can easily arrange to go and watch rehearsals held from August to February, mainly at various points in the Zona Norte. For cheap early evening entertainment, there are the Seis e Meia shows (at 6.30pm, as the name suggests): in Centro try the Teatro João Caetano on Praça Tiradentes, or the Paço Imperial on Praça XV de Novembro.

Of the clubs , try Clube do Samba, Estrada de Barra 65 in Barra de Tijuca, with lots of dancing and a nice open-air bar. Dedicated just to samba, Saturday often sees shows by big names like Beth Carvalho, Alcione, João and Giza Nogeuiral (check in the Jornal do Brasil); entrance costs about $10 which is typical for this type of set-up. More big names, too, at Canecão, Av. Wenceslas Bras 215, Botafogo, which can get pleasantly rowdy of an evening.

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Jazz
Rio de Janeiro has a tradition of jazz music that extends well beyond The Girl from Ipanema and which is celebrated in the Free Jazz Festival , an important event on the international jazz circuit. The festival usually takes place in late August or early September, and is based in the theatre in the Hotel Nacional in São Conrado. In past years, Brazilian musicians like Egberto Gismonti, Hermeto Pascoal, Airto Moreira and Flora Purim have combined with the likes of Art Blakey, Sarah Vaughan, Ray Charles and Stan Jordan. For more information, contact Dueto Productions, Rua Visconde de Pirajá 146 in Ipanema.

Amongst the clubs that specialize in live jazz and tend to have consistently good programmes are Jazzmania, Rua Rainha Elizabeth 769 (tel 021/287-0085), on the corner between Copacabana and Ipanema, and Peoples, Av. Bartolomeu Mitre 370, Leblon; both have cover charges of around $10-15. The latter is very trendy, but make sure you avoid the dreadful country-and-western band that has a regular Tuesday spot. In both cases, it's a good idea to call to find out who's playing; be prepared to be turned away if it's especially crowded on the evening that you choose and you're not dressed stylishly enough.

Rio de Janeiro guide
Brazil guide

Classical music and exhibitions
Rio is the home of the Brazilian Symphony Orchestra , and the orchestra of the Teatro Municipal - the theatre which is home to the city's ballet troupe and opera company. This is the venue for almost everything that happens in terms of "high culture", with four or five major productions a year. All kinds of events attract famous names, and prices are reasonable; check the Jornal do Brasil.

For musical, photographic and fine art exhibitions , it's worth checking at the headquarters of Funarte, around the corner from the Museu das Belas Artes in Rua Araújo de Porto Alegre; either go and get a copy of their programme, or keep an eye on the newspapers. Particularly good are the photographic exhibitions under the direction of Walter Firmo, and the musical recitals that take place in the Sidney Millar room on the first floor of Funarte.

It's always worth checking out what's on at the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil , Rua Primeiro de Março 66, Centro (Tues-Sun 10am-10pm), which puts on an excellent programme of films, music and plays, often free. Situated in a lovely, grand and cool building, it has several exhibition halls, a cinema, two theatres, a tearoom and a restaurant.