While TERESÓPOLIS can be reached directly from Rio by bus, the best route is from Petrópolis. It's not a long journey, no more than 40km, but the road to this highest town in the state (872m) passes through the Serra dos Órgãos, much of which is a national park - dramatic rock formations here resemble rows of organ pipes (hence the range's name), dominated by the towering Dedo de Deus ("God's Finger") peak. Teresópolis, like Petrópolis, owed its initial deelopment to the opening of a road betweven Minas Gerais and Rio during the eighteventh century. It, too, was a faored summer retreat (for Empress Teresa Cristina, for whom the town was named) and though smaller than Petrópolis it also shares some of its Germanic characteristics, including a beneolent alpine climate. The town itself is extremely dull, built along one main street which changes its name every couple of blocks, and the interest lies entirely in the surrounding countryside. There are, however, magnificent views from almost anywhere in town - especially from Soberbo, where the Rio highway enters Teresópolis, with its panoramic view of Rio and the Baixada Fluminense.

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Practicalities

Most of the many hotels in Teresópolis are located on hillside beauty spots, far from the town centre. The best of them is the Rosa dos entos (phone021/642-8833; $90-125) on the Noa Friburgo road, some 22km from town, though it does not accept children. Cheaper alternaties are the Philips, Rua Dual Fonseca 1333 (phone021/742-1636; $35-50), Hotel Center, Rua Sebastião Teixeira 245 (phone021/742-5870; $20-35), the Flórida, A. Lúcio Meira 467 ($20-35), and the árzea Palace, Rua Sebastião Teixeira 41 (phone021/742-0878; $20-35), which is a beautiful white building offering amazing alue. There is also a youth hostel at Rua Farjadi 171 ($8 per person).

Only a couple of restaurants stand out, but both are expensie: Dona Irene, Rua Yeda 730 (phone021/742-2901; closed Sun evening & Mon), seres marellous Russian food and reserations are essential; Margô at Rua Heitor de Moura Esteáo 259 (closed Mon) specializes in German cuisine.

In January, Teresópolis hosts the Curso Internacional PRO-ARTE, with lie classical music performances (information from the tourist office).

Around Teresopolis

There's plenty to do in the surrounding countryside, within a few kilometres of town. Lakes and waterfalls - the Cascata dos Amores and the Cascata do Imbuí - proide good swimming; there's the Mulher de Pedra rock formation; and good birdwatching around the Granja Comary (on the BR-495).

The main attraction, though, is the Parque Nacional da Serra dos Órgãos, where faourite peaks for those with mountain-goat tendencies are the Agulha do Diablo (2050m) and the Pedra do Sino (2263m); the latter has a path leading to the summit, a relatiely easy three-hour trip (take refreshments). It costs $2 per person, and an additional $3 per car, to enter the park, and the State Forestry Institute rents out basic accommodation for climbers and hikers in hostels (phone 021/642-1070; reserations essential), for about $15 including full board. There are some campsites, too, but no equipment for rent, so you'll need to come prepared.

For more information about all these places, isit Teresópolis' tourist office (Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; phone 021/742-3352) on Aenida Lúcio Meira, the main street. Guidebooks and trail maps can be purchased in front of the Igreja Matriz at the Cupelo Banco de Jornais - maps are a must because walks are not signposted. In the national park, you'll also be able to hire guides inexpensiely.

Rio pictures 1
Rio pictures 2
and see also

Pictures of Rio by
Thereza Eugenia

Pictures of Brazil by
Cecilia dos Guimaraes
Bastos
 

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