While TERESÓPOLIS can be reached directly from Rio by bus, the best route is from Petrópolis. It's not a long journey, no more than 40km, but the road to this highest town in the state (872m) passes through the Serra dos Órgãos , much of which is a national park - dramatic rock formations here resemble rows of organ pipes (hence the range's name), dominated by the towering Dedo de Deus ("God's Finger") peak. Teresópolis, like Petrópolis, owed its initial development to the opening of a road between Minas Gerais and Rio during the eighteenth century. It, too, was a favored summer retreat (for Empress Teresa Cristina, for whom the town was named) and though smaller than Petrópolis it also shares some of its Germanic characteristics, including a benevolent alpine climate. The town itself is extremely dull, built along one main street which changes its name every couple of blocks, and the interest lies entirely in the surrounding countryside. There are, however, magnificent views from almost anywhere in town - especially from Soberbo , where the Rio highway enters Teresópolis, with its panoramic view of Rio and the Baixada Fluminense.

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Practicalities

Most of the many hotels in Teresópolis are located on hillside beauty spots, far from the town centre. The best of them is the Rosa dos Ventos (phone021/642-8833; $90-125) on the Nova Friburgo road, some 22km from town, though it does not accept children. Cheaper alternatives are the Philips, Rua Duval Fonseca 1333 (phone021/742-1636; $35-50), Hotel Center, Rua Sebastião Teixeira 245 (phone021/742-5870; $20-35), the Flórida, Av. Lúcio Meira 467 ($20-35), and the Várzea Palace, Rua Sebastião Teixeira 41 (phone021/742-0878; $20-35), which is a beautiful white building offering amazing value. There is also a youth hostel at Rua Farjadi 171 ($8 per person).

Only a couple of restaurants stand out, but both are expensive: Dona Irene, Rua Yeda 730 (phone021/742-2901; closed Sun evening & Mon), serves marvellous Russian food and reservations are essential; Margô at Rua Heitor de Moura Esteváo 259 (closed Mon) specializes in German cuisine.

In January, Teresópolis hosts the Curso Internacional PRO-ARTE , with live classical music performances (information from the tourist office).

Around Teresopolis

There's plenty to do in the surrounding countryside, within a few kilometres of town. Lakes and waterfalls - the Cascata dos Amores and the Cascata do Imbuí - provide good swimming; there's the Mulher de Pedra rock formation; and good birdwatching around the Granja Comary (on the BR-495).

The main attraction, though, is the Parque Nacional da Serra dos Órgãos , where favourite peaks for those with mountain-goat tendencies are the Agulha do Diablo (2050m) and the Pedra do Sino (2263m); the latter has a path leading to the summit, a relatively easy three-hour trip (take refreshments). It costs $2 per person, and an additional $3 per car, to enter the park, and the State Forestry Institute rents out basic accommodation for climbers and hikers in hostels (phone 021/642-1070; reservations essential), for about $15 including full board. There are some campsites, too, but no equipment for rent, so you'll need to come prepared.

For more information about all these places, visit Teresópolis' tourist office (Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; phone 021/742-3352) on Avenida Lúcio Meira, the main street. Guidebooks and trail maps can be purchased in front of the Igreja Matriz at the Cupelo Banco de Jornais - maps are a must because walks are not signposted. In the national park, you'll also be able to hire guides inexpensively.

Rio pictures 1
Rio pictures 2
and see also

Pictures of Rio by
Thereza Eugenia

Pictures of Brazil by
Cecilia dos Guimaraes
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