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Most of
eastern San Diego County, which otherwise consists largely
of sleepy suburban communities, is taken up by the more than
600,000-acre Anza-Borrego Desert, much of it a state park
(free; $5 per vehicle). Some of it can be covered by car,
although four-wheel-drive vehicles are necessary for the
more obscure - and most interesting - routes.
The best time
to come is winter, when daytime temperatures stay around the
mid-eighties. In the fiercely hot summer, it's best left to
the lizards, but when the desert blooms, between March and
May, scarlet ocotillo, orange poppies, white lilies, purple
verbena and other wild flowers paint a memorable, and
fragrant, picture. To find out more information, and begin
your trip at a good jumping-off point, stop by the park
visitors center, near park headquarters at 200 Palm Canyon
Drive (daily 8am-5pm, weekends only during summer; phone
760/767-4205).
Historical reminders in the desert span Native American
tribes, early white explorers and Gold Rush fortune-hunters.
Approaching from the west, Hwy-78 descends to Scissors
Crossing, the junction with Hwy-22, which follows the
Butterfield Stage Route , the first regular line of
communication between the East and the newly settled West,
which began service in 1857. Further on, the old adobe rest
stop of Vallecito (vy-ay-SEE-toe) Stage Station gives a good
indication of the privations of early desert travel.
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To the south,
around Imperial Valley in the least-visited portion of
Anza-Borrego, there's a vivid and spectacular clash as gray
rock rises from the edges of the red desert floor. Along
Hwy-22, east of Borrego Springs, is a memorial to Peg Leg
Smith, an infamous local spinner of yarns from the Gold Rush
days who is celebrated by the Peg Leg Liars Contest on the
first Saturday in April; anybody can get up before the
judges and fib their hearts out.
The only substantial settlement in the desert is BORREGO
SPRINGS , at the northern end of Hwy-S3 along Hwy-S22, which
is a good base for the area's canyon walks, some with free
but waterless campgrounds . Camping is also available at the
Borrego Palm Canyon campground, near the Anza-Borrego park
visitors center. From here, a 1.5-mile trail takes you to a
small oasis with palms and a waterfall. Hotels in town are
fairly pricey; only the Oasis at 366 W Palm Drive (ph
760/767-5409; $50-75) and Hacienda del Sol (ph 760/767-5442;
$50-75), on Palm Canyon Drive, are even close to affordable.
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