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In 1769,
Spanish settlers chose Presidio Hill as the site of the
first of California's missions. They soon began to build
homes at the foot of the hill, which was dominated in turn
by Mexican officials and then by early arrivals from the
eastern US. Old Town San Diego, reachable from downtown via
the Trolley, is now a state historical park holding a number
of original adobe dwellings, plus the inevitable souvenir
shops.
The stores and
restaurants stay open until 10pm or later, but the best time
to be around is during the afternoon, to enter the more
interesting of the adobes on the daily free walking tour
(2pm), which leaves from the Seeley Stable , just off the
central plaza, home to many nicely preserved horse-drawn
carriages and wagons from the nineteenth century. Details
are available from the visitors center , 4002 Wallace St
(daily 10am-5pm; ph 858/220-5422).
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The
Spanish-style building now atop Presidio Hill is only a
rough approximation of the original mission - moved in 1774
- but its Serra Museum (Thurs-Sun 10am-4.30pm; $5) is an
intriguing examination of Junipero Serra, the padre who led
the Spanish colonization and Catholic conversion of
California.
The Mission
San Diego de Alcalá itself was relocated six miles north to
10818 San Diego Mission Rd (daily 9am-5pm; $3 donation), to
be near a water source and fertile soils - and to be safer
from attack. The present building (on bus #43 from downtown)
is still a working parish church, a peaceful complex with a
small museum that holds craft objects and historical
articles from the mission, including the crucifix held by
Serra at his death in 1834.
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