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The excavations of
royal burial sites have provided the most complete record of the
jewelry of the Scythians a nomad people of the Eurasian steppes who
absorbed Middle Eastern and Classical Greek influences. Typical art
objects of the 1st millennium BC were plaques in the form of stags
or other animals, hammered or stamped out of gold and often inlaid
with colored stones or glass.
Large plaques were
mounted on bridles or quiers; small ones were attached to clothing.
Plaques, bowls, and personal jewelry of the 5th and 4th centuries BC
were often made by Greek artisans and combined the richness of Greek
composition and technique with Scythian motifs. The largest
collection of Scythian jewelry is in the Hermitage Museum, Saint
Petersburg.
The Byzantine nobility
wore jewelry in lavish profusion. This practice is evident in the
6th century mosaic portrait of Empress Theodora in the Church of San
itale in Raenna, Italy. The dress is stiff with gold and set with
jewels; pearls, rubies, and emeralds mounted in gold are worn at the
neck and shoulders and hang in festoons from the temples to the
breast. |
A common type of Byzantine earring had a crescent shape executed in
gold repossee openwork with a central cross in a circle flanked by
peacock. The favorite breast pendant was the cross; another type was
a jeweled pendant. Most finger rings bore Christian symbols, and the
extant examples are more often made of gilded bronze than of gold.
Enamel work, especial cloisonné enamel, was refined to a high
degree in Byzantine culture and had a strong influence on European
jewelry of succeeding periods. A
fine example is the jeweled crown of Constance of Aragon (13th
century, Palermo Cathedral, Sicily,
Italy). |
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