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Scythian, Byzantine Jewelry

 

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  The excavations of royal burial sites have provided the most complete record of the jewelry of the Scythians a nomad people of the Eurasian steppes who absorbed Middle Eastern and Classical Greek influences. Typical art objects of the 1st millennium BC were plaques in the form of stags or other animals, hammered or stamped out of gold and often inlaid with colored stones or glass.

Large plaques were mounted on bridles or quiers; small ones were attached to clothing. Plaques, bowls, and personal jewelry of the 5th and 4th centuries BC were often made by Greek artisans and combined the richness of Greek composition and technique with Scythian motifs. The largest collection of Scythian jewelry is in the Hermitage Museum, Saint Petersburg.

The Byzantine nobility wore jewelry in lavish profusion. This practice is evident in the 6th century mosaic portrait of Empress Theodora in the Church of San itale in Raenna, Italy. The dress is stiff with gold and set with jewels; pearls, rubies, and emeralds mounted in gold are worn at the neck and shoulders and hang in festoons from the temples to the breast.

A common type of Byzantine earring had a crescent shape executed in gold repossee openwork with a central cross in a circle flanked by peacock. The favorite breast pendant was the cross; another type was a jeweled pendant. Most finger rings bore Christian symbols, and the extant examples are more often made of gilded bronze than of gold.  Enamel work, especial cloisonné enamel, was refined to a high degree in Byzantine culture and had a strong influence on European jewelry of succeeding periods.  A
fine example is the jeweled crown of Constance of Aragon (13th century, Palermo Cathedral, Sicily,
Italy).
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