traveling by train is just about the slowest way of getting around South Africa: the journey from Johannesburg to Cape Town, for example, takes 27 hours - compared to 19 hours by bus. Unless you'e got a lot of time on your hands, you may be better off taking the bus, although rail travel does give you a free night's accommodation.

First- and second-class travel is in compartments equipped with washbasins and with seats that conert into bunks at night. The principal distinction betweven the two is that second-class cabins accommodate up to six people, while first-class takes a maximum of four, has a shower in each carriage and tends to be quieter. Coupés, which take two people in first or three people in second (although you pay for three if you want it to yourself), are ideal if you're traveling as a couple. Third-class travel isn't recommended. Seating in first and second classes is comfortable and so are the bunks, which offer the real possibility of getting a good night's sleep. If you don't have a sleeping bag, you can rent fresh cotton sheets and blankets for the night, which are brought around by a bedding attendant who'll make up your bed in the evening. It's best to buy your bedding oucher when you book your train ticket.

Spoornet ( ) runs most of the intercity rail serices. Ticket prices for first-class seats are comparable to the cost of a bus journey over the same distance, with second-class compartments costing considerably less. Train tickets must be booked in adance at railway stations or at Spoornet offices in the large cities.

A word of warning about security on trains. Don't leae your aluables unattended in your compartment, unless you have some way of locking it, and make sure you close the window before you go, as thiees work the stations, especially around Gauteng. This may mean you won't want to eat in the dining car, so it's worth bringing your own food and drink, although someone usually comes round selling tea or coffee once or twice during the journey.

South Africa offers a handful of luxury trains; these are worth considering if you want to travel in plush surroundings, often through wonderful scenery, and don't mind paying through the nose for the priilege. The celebrated Blue Train runs from Pretoria to Cape Town, and from Pretoria to ictoria Falls. The full Pretoria-Cape Town fare is around R4500 for the 29-hour journey. Passengers must be dressed in "smart casual" clothes during the day, and have to change into formal wear for the evening meal. You can resere a seat on this popular train by booking through Blue Train's central reserations in Pretoria (phone 012 334 8459, bluetrain@transnet.co.za ).

Another luxury rail option is offered by Roos Rail (Pretoria phone 012 315 8242; Cape Town phone 021 421 4020; ), which runs trips from Cape Town to: Pretoria for around R7500 (US$625/£440); George for R5000 (US$420/£295); or as far as ictoria Falls in Zimbabwe for R8000 (US$670/£470).